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PostPosted: Sat Apr 20, 2019 7:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:58 pm
Posts: 53
The headstock needs work. Its a little uneven coming out of the neck. Also I don't like its basic shape, I want to change it a little. I'm going to have it pinch in a little in the middle, kind of like a Les Paul headstock and I'm thinking about doing something with the top profile although not sure what yet.

I tried to fix the curve coming out of the neck and I got them to match closer although they are still off. Since I'm going to change the basic shape of the headstock the tuners are going to be in a slightly different place. They weren't symmetrical anyway. So I plugged up all the holes. I drilled out the big holes to 5/16th so I could get a down plug in there. And the small screw holes filled up nicely with a round toothpick. I have rosewood veneer for the front so no worries their. I'm hoping the new hardware covers the plugged holes in the back completely but they may not.

I've ordered the truss rod. When that comes in I'll work on the channel in the neck. Its not dead center, its off by quite a bit. I'm wondering how much that would effect how the rod works.


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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2019 10:51 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:58 pm
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Okay I've done some fretboard work. I've flattened out the bottom, removed any old glue. I decided to go with a compound radius board. With my new radius gauges I saw that this was already a compound radius board, but it was pretty sloppy. I didn't want to flatten the top of the board first then make the radius. It would have been right but I might not have had a whole lot of fretboard left. Instead I hit the high spots with a file, then I used the sanding blocks.

I used four different sanding blocks going from 7.5 to 16. This was what the board already roughly was. I did each block in a section and tried to blend it. Then I had a long thin straight edge that I sanded to even things out along the board. This process was what I saw on a youtube video. It made sense to me and I think it came out pretty good.

The next step is to take out the pearl inlay and put in abalone dots.


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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2019 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Posts: 1982
Boy, this has turned into quite the project! How far off center is the truss rod? Has it worked properly? I think as long as it's done the job for all these years without warping the neck, you're fine. Check to make sure it's in good shape. If it's hard to work or getting rusty, now is the time to replace it. You don't need it breaking down the road.

A friend gave me an old Norman "Adjustomatic" guitar a month ago. The entire neck moves to adjust the action. There was no truss rod, nor was there any neck reinforcement. Over the past 50+ years, the neck developed a forward bow from string tension. I tried compression fretting, using the widest tang I owned, but it still had a dip of over 1/8" when I put a straight edge down it.

So, I've taken off the cheap fretboard, routed a truss rod channel, installed a truss rod, and made a new fretboard (which is probably worth more than the entire guitar. Haha!) I should replace the top with a decent spruce top, but I'm not sure I want to put that much work into a beater.


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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2019 6:04 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:58 pm
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The rod did not work. It was just a piece of steel. their was a nut embedded in the neck and then a screw would put tension on the rod. However the channel was flat. I'm not sure how you could control which way the rod flexed. In any case it wasn't working when i tried to use it so i got a new one. a "Two way" which hopefully will work out fine.

I worked on the fretboard some. removed the plastic inlay and adjusted the holes to be more center as best I could. The second picture shows how little i could make an adjustment but it does look much nicer now.


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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2019 9:36 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Posts: 1982
It looks good Keith. You're going to have a new guitar when you're done.


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