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Had a few minutes before the revelry, so I glued the fretboard onto the neck. 8 clamps, each with curved caul below, slightly more curved than the fretboard radius to ensure that the edges of the board are down tight

See you all in the new year

Ed

Here is one I forgot to post

I glued the truss rod in with silicone caulk - a healthy dab at the ends and a bit down the center to keep it from rattling. Carefully taped to keep the silicone off gluing surface of the neck

Back at it. I have installed a couple of strings and finalized the set up, and have taken it apart for final sanding and prep


Firs shot is the set-up. I have a 24."9 scale, so for compensation, the high e saddle is located 25" from the face of the nut, while the low E is located 25-1/8" from the face of the nut. Halfway between these two is 25-1/16" so I cut a dowel at that length. Now I can locate the center of the saddle on the cone, then twist the cone to give the right compensation

Second is the final set - 3/32 e and 4/32 E

Third is the cone - I lowered the saddle a smidge, glued the biscuit onto the cone, and tightened the cone screw just a bit

I finish sand the neck - first the shaft, then the heel, then the head - here the shaft is done . . .


Now the whole thing is done with a coat of shellac to keep it clean - the walnut headplate looks great


Sand the body

While sanding the body I discovered a 1" length of binding that did not sit down in its channel well - looks like the channel has a bump in it, fortunately behind the tailpiece.

1) I melted a piece of the binding in lacquer thinner and worked it into the gap with a dental tool. I tried to melt it with a propane torch and found out about how it bursts into flame - interesting

2) After 220 grit - looks pretty good

3) Now for the frets - first go over the edges with the 30° file

Then I dress the frets

1) Using a fret rocker and a straightedge I determine where the worst of the problems are, then file them a bit. The use a flat file lightly over everything

2) With a fret crown file, I work til there is just a touch left of my marker at the top of each fret

3) I go over the frets with several grits of sandpaper and then 0000 steel wool to polish them up. This time I did not round the ends of the frets with a file, but rather sanded them with 320 grit on my fingers to gently round them - I think I like it

1) The steel wool leavings found the magnets

2) I really like the color of the Ash and tortoise binding after the shellac

3) Hang them to harden before I apply Tru-Oil

So close now Ed. Looks great, good fix on the binding

My, my, look at all those planes on the shelves behind the body and neck picture... by the way the resonator is looking great so far... T

I have decided on TruOil for a finish. I have used it once before and liked the result - especially when compared to degree of difficulty. In addition, it is varnish, so has a higher level of durability.

1) MLW just replaced a batch of kitchen towels and they were fine cotton, much like cheesecloth. They make a difference in the application, and now I have a lifetime supply. This is the third coat.

2) I have never done any woodworking quite like these basket weave grilles. I am trying everything to dress them up - chisels, dovetail corner chisels, carving chisels, and triangular files