#3, my first 'scratch' build

[Jcolvin]

I got some wood from LMI to build my first 'scratch' guitar! I'm excited. I don't know if it's technically a full scratch build because I had the fretboard slotted and radiused, and the neck block is pre drilled and the mortise is cut out. Beyond, that, I think I can call it a scratch build :). Although, I didn't cut down the trees or mill them either...

But anyhow, I think I'll build an OM. I have the wood stacked now and will let it acclimate for a week or so. Granadillo b&s, Redwood top, port orford cedar neck, ebony bindings, ebony fretboard. We'll see how it goes! I hope to blog each step the best I can

On another note, my Port Orford Cedar neck blank is bowed! Does anyone have any ideas on how to straighten it and hopefully salvage it? And if I do succeed at getting it flat, is it doomed to simply bow again some time soon? For now, I've wiped the concave side of the bow with a wet rag, and put a 40 lb weight on it on the flat floor.

Here's some photos

[Jcolvin]

Another bowed neck photo. Not sure why some of the photos are turned, but I think if you click it, it'll flip straight. Thanks for looking!

[phavriluk]

Maybe a talk with the folks who provided the neck blank is in order. While I have no experience in the matter, I would be very conservative about trying to salvage a piece of warped wood to use in a neck. My layman's opinion is that the neck wood needs to be nice and flat all by itself without help or coercion before I'd try to turn the plank into a neck.

I'm sure there are skilled folks on this forum who can offer their experience and advice.

What Phil said.
+ Get the vendor to replace it.
Do you really want to chance wasting your time, effort and money on a neck warp?

[Jcolvin]

So I called and told them the situation, and they suggested I wet the concave side with hot water, and see if it straightens out. It did become straight over night. Straight as an arrow. However, we'll see what happens in the next few days. If it bows again, I'll definitely be requesting a replacement. Until then, it's mold and jig making time!

[Danl8]

Definitely get a replacement. The neck blank already has a proven dimensional instability that is quite likely to resurface when conditions are right (ie, after you've spent time and money on your build).

[phavriluk]

I suggest speaking with the neck wood vendor again, with someone higher up in the food chain than the one that told you to wet the neck and the warp would go away. And what are you supposed to do when it dries out? That's why instrument lumber needs to be dry and stable. Sounds to me as if you were given destructive misinformation which should not be allowed to persist. And politely insist on a new neck blank.

[Jcolvin]

Thanks for the advice guys, today the bow is already starting to return. I called again, and they're sending another blank.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

That is a great wood combination, going to be a real looker for sure.

[Jcolvin]

So I got the new neck blank today, and this one is bowed as well. I guess I have plenty of nice Port Orford Cedar brace wood stock? I'll give them another call, and see what we can work out. I might as for a Mahogany neck blank instead, but I just don't enjoy pore filling. I do have a curly maple blank that's nice and straight, but I'm not sure how it'd look.

Anyway, I got some work done over the weekend.
First off, I made the mold out of MDF. I'm using the blueprint found with the Kinkade Build Your Own Acoustic Guitar book for the shape and bracing, so I traced the blueprint using parchment paper since I had some at the house. Then cut the profile out using a razor knife. I then used a felt tip marker around the edge of the parchment, creating a line on the mdf...cut inside the line with a jig saw, and there's one piece. Then I glued another board on the top and bottom of that. Then used a flush cut bit on the router and routed it all flush, creating the mold. I'll have to cut it in half before I use it for the sides, but it worked well as one piece to transfer the profile onto the back and top pieces.