#3, my first 'scratch' build

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Way to go! This guitar is looking mighty fine. Nice job on getting the sides bent too. I did my first 4 on a pipe, and although I enjoyed it, the bender gives me much better results then I was getting.

[Jcolvin]

Thanks Kevin!
Thanks Diane!

We have a canister style steamer (used for cleaning).

binding in mold.jpg

Cool thanks for the idea! Do you think a typical carpet steam vac would work?

Worked on scraping the bindings down today and sanding the sides to be perfectly flat. Not done sanding yet. I might bend the sides with less water next time, as they have a bit more ripple in them than I'd like. Lots of sanding! My shoulder hurts. Notice in the photo how at the tail, I have a slight gap in the binding. I'll probably have to fill that in with something. Sanding dust and super glue? Blonde filler? Not sure yet. I've never been able to cut my bindings to length perfectly. I think it must be that I'm measuring the length without the purfling in place, then once the purfling goes in, the binding has more distance to cover. When do y'all actually cut your binding? Before you start gluing it on or once you reach close to the joint? Thanks!

[Diane Kauffmds]

Thanks Kevin!
Thanks Diane!

We have a canister style steamer (used for cleaning).

binding in mold.jpg

Cool thanks for the idea! Do you think a typical carpet steam vac will work?

I have a slight gap in the binding. I'll probably have to fill that in with something. Sanding dust and super glue? Blonde filler?

I've never been able to cut my bindings to length perfectly. When do y'all actually cut your binding? Before you start gluing it on or once you reach close to the joint? Thanks!

I would try the carpet steamer. Starting at the waist , steam the wood and push very slowly. It'll be hot, so use a couple of pieces of wood to guide the binding. You'll feel the would slowly give with the steam and conform to the mold. Clamp it to hold it into place and continue to do this until you have the binding completely bent. Remember to wrap your mold, to prevent damage.

To cut the bindings, temporarily tape the binding to the guitar. I marked the overlap of the pieces, then went to the band saw and cut them both the same time, keeping them in the same position as they were on the guitar, with the pencil marks lined up. Taping the binding on either side of the pencil lines will ensure it doesn't shift. This cut will fit together so precisely, that when you glue the bindings to the guitar, the seam will disappear.

I dry fit everything to the guitar before I glue, exactly like it's being glued, tape, clamps, or go bars included, to ensure everything fits right, including the purfling. This is when I mark for the cuts.

I had a small gap between the binding and side. I filled with the saw dust first, then used a fine pipette to apply ca glue, and sanded.

If you have a gap around the top, I would try sawdust and your finish to fill. CA glue will eventually discolor spruce.

[Diane Kauffmds]

I also have a cheap set of mini files. You might find that even though you cut your binding on the lines, it fits a little too tight, because of swelling from the glue. Just file the ends a tiny bit. It'll go right together.

[MaineGeezer]

What is the binding made of? If it's celluloid, you can make celluloid "glue" by dissolving some shavings of celluloid in acetone. Work out the proportions so you get a nice goopy consistency. Then you can fill gaps, apply it to seams, etc. It will slightly dissolve the binding and blend perfectly. It does take a while to harden and it shrinks a lot, so be patient and be prepared to apply additional layers.

...looking back through your posts, I guess you have wood binding, so that idea won't help you much this time around. But if you ever DO have celluloid binding, you'll know what to do!

[Diane Kauffmds]

What is the binding made of? If it's celluloid, you can make celluloid "glue" by dissolving some shavings of celluloid in acetone

I'm working on an old 1959 Silvertone with celluloid binding. Thanks for the tip; I may need it.

[Jcolvin]

Thanks again for the tips! I'll steer clear of getting CA glue near my top. In the meantime I cut the neck tenon, cheek angle, and inserted the brass threaded inserts, and successfully ended up with a 3/32" gap at the saddle location. Phew!! I was worried about that angle, being my first neck from a blank. Now to shape it nicely, I'm sure will pose perhaps a greater challenge!

[Diane Kauffmds]

Wow, it really does look nice. It's coming together great.

[Jcolvin]

Finished up the fretboard and glued it on. Then trimmed down the extra material of the neck along the sides of the fretboard with a saw and bench plane. Next step is to carve and shape the neck! I'm looking forward to this as I haven't done it before. I plan to use a sanding drum drill bit, spoke shave, rasp, and of course sand paper. If anyone has suggestions for this process I would love to hear them! Thank you all.

[MaineGeezer]

I used a spokeshave, a lot. A chisel some, where the spokeshave wouldn't go. Also a drawknife, some. If you're like me, you'll be afraid you're taking off too much. Rely on measurements. Also on your eye, and touch, to get fair curves at the heel.

Angled light shows up hard transitions and unevenness. Get a light so it just grazes the surface and casts shadows of the imperfections.

All in all, it wasn't as difficult as I had anticipated, though that is not to be construed that it's easy. It does take time. I expect you'll do fine.

Oh yes! A rasp, some, as well. Mostly a half-round to get the curve transitions around the nut.