Wow!!! Very nice...
Sincerely,
Rich
Guitar #2. 00-12 Fret with Engelmann/Cherry
-
justrfb
- Posts: 217
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:17 am
- Location: North Jersey
-
Diane Kauffmds
- Posts: 3256
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Re: New Project. 00-12 Fret with Engelmann/Cherry
The rosette that I made, didn't work out, so I made another out of WV black walnut. I used thin maple on the inside and outside of the walnut, then bwb purfling. I bound the soundhole with a thin strip of black walnut.
I had been using the dremel, with a circle cutter, to make my rosettes. I made a base out of 1/2" mdf to mount my Ridgid compact router, and used the measuring guide and pin from the dremel circle cutter, to make a circle cutter for the Ridgid. This is what I used to make the rosette, as well as inlaying it in the top. I used a 1/4" to 1/8" bushing, and an 1/8" carbide bit.
I had been using the dremel, with a circle cutter, to make my rosettes. I made a base out of 1/2" mdf to mount my Ridgid compact router, and used the measuring guide and pin from the dremel circle cutter, to make a circle cutter for the Ridgid. This is what I used to make the rosette, as well as inlaying it in the top. I used a 1/4" to 1/8" bushing, and an 1/8" carbide bit.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
MaineGeezer
- Posts: 1719
- Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:14 pm
Re: New Project. 00-12 Fret with Engelmann/Cherry
How much slop is there in the vertical adjustment of the Ridgid router? My DeWalt has "a lot." I guess the technical term is "backlash." Until it's locked down, the base can shift up and down by maybe a sixteenth of an inch. As long as you make a point of always taking up the backlash in the same direction it's fine, but I'm wondering if the Ridgid is any tighter.
Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
-
Diane Kauffmds
- Posts: 3256
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Re: New Project. 00-12 Fret with Engelmann/Cherry
I've found no backlash at all. It stays absolutely where I put it, even before locking it down. Both the gross and fine adjustments are tight and there is no movement as it's locked down.MaineGeezer wrote:How much slop is there in the vertical adjustment of the Ridgid router? My DeWalt has "a lot." I guess the technical term is "backlash." Until it's locked down, the base can shift up and down by maybe a sixteenth of an inch. As long as you make a point of always taking up the backlash in the same direction it's fine, but I'm wondering if the Ridgid is any tighter.
-
Diane Kauffmds
- Posts: 3256
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Re: New Project. 00-12 Fret with Engelmann/Cherry
ROSETTE FAILURE
I thought I'd share the problems I had making my first rosette. The wood went together great, so nice in fact, that I thought about leaving the abalone inlay out. In hindsight, I wish I had just used it, without trying to inlay it, but...
I routed the channel, using my compact router with a 1/4 to 1/8" bushing, from Lee Valley Tools. As everyone knows, Lee Valley sells very high quality parts. The bushing is made of Tungsten Carbide, which will wear through eternity. However, in this instance, I wish they'd used regular steel, because it takes a monster amount of tightening the router collar to compress the bushing around an 1/8" bit. I got it tightened, did my test route, which came out great.
The first 1/4 of the way around the rosette, it did great, but I failed to notice that the bit was slipping out until I was another 1/2 way (or more) around the rosette. It routed through the rosette completely. Using sawdust and duco cement (since it will stick it itself once dry), I made a fill and filled the channel. I routed the next day and inlaid the abalone, using Duco.
When I dismounted the rosette, it needed to be thicknessed a bit more, so I sanded from the back, since the abalone was a veneer. The rosette completely and utterly disintegrated.
So....after swearing a few choice epithets, I decided to use some WV black walnut that I had sitting here to make a replacement. THIS time, I put the rosette pieces together and thicknessed it before routing it into a rosette.
I made the decision to inlay the rosette with abalone before putting it in the top, because I saw all of the ready-made rosettes, which were already inlaid. If I do it again, I'll inlay the wood rosette into the top, then inlay the abalone.
The pictures below are a piece of what's left of the rosette, which fell further apart today, when I picked it up to photograph it. The First Photo is the front and the second is the back. The third photo is the replacement walnut rosette. If you're wondering about the purfling at the top of the walnut rosette, I like my fingerboards to end completely at the hole, so the very top won't show at all (and I was lazy). However, when I eventually bound the soundhole with black walnut, I did a proper joining:
I thought I'd share the problems I had making my first rosette. The wood went together great, so nice in fact, that I thought about leaving the abalone inlay out. In hindsight, I wish I had just used it, without trying to inlay it, but...
I routed the channel, using my compact router with a 1/4 to 1/8" bushing, from Lee Valley Tools. As everyone knows, Lee Valley sells very high quality parts. The bushing is made of Tungsten Carbide, which will wear through eternity. However, in this instance, I wish they'd used regular steel, because it takes a monster amount of tightening the router collar to compress the bushing around an 1/8" bit. I got it tightened, did my test route, which came out great.
The first 1/4 of the way around the rosette, it did great, but I failed to notice that the bit was slipping out until I was another 1/2 way (or more) around the rosette. It routed through the rosette completely. Using sawdust and duco cement (since it will stick it itself once dry), I made a fill and filled the channel. I routed the next day and inlaid the abalone, using Duco.
When I dismounted the rosette, it needed to be thicknessed a bit more, so I sanded from the back, since the abalone was a veneer. The rosette completely and utterly disintegrated.
So....after swearing a few choice epithets, I decided to use some WV black walnut that I had sitting here to make a replacement. THIS time, I put the rosette pieces together and thicknessed it before routing it into a rosette.
I made the decision to inlay the rosette with abalone before putting it in the top, because I saw all of the ready-made rosettes, which were already inlaid. If I do it again, I'll inlay the wood rosette into the top, then inlay the abalone.
The pictures below are a piece of what's left of the rosette, which fell further apart today, when I picked it up to photograph it. The First Photo is the front and the second is the back. The third photo is the replacement walnut rosette. If you're wondering about the purfling at the top of the walnut rosette, I like my fingerboards to end completely at the hole, so the very top won't show at all (and I was lazy). However, when I eventually bound the soundhole with black walnut, I did a proper joining:
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
MaineGeezer
- Posts: 1719
- Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:14 pm
Re: New Project. 00-12 Fret with Engelmann/Cherry
Pain and agony.....!
Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
-
Diane Kauffmds
- Posts: 3256
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Re: New Project. 00-12 Fret with Engelmann/Cherry
Boy, ain't it the truth!MaineGeezer wrote:Pain and agony.....!
-
Diane Kauffmds
- Posts: 3256
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Re: New Project. 00-12 Fret with Engelmann/Cherry
I've never bent sides before, but I knew it was high time I learned. After making every excuse in the book, I finally took a deep breath and bent the sides. I was amazed at how easy it was. It went off without a hitch.
This is the mold that I made. I still need to finish it. I'm going to rout channels so that all of the blocks are adjustable, but before doing the routing, I went ahead and bent the sides to the mold.
I used a small steam generator with a hose, which I aimed at each curve. Once I bent each curve, I used blocks to hold it in place while I worked on a different area. I bent the waist, then the upper bout, ending with the lower bout.
I'm going to leave it in the mold overnight. I'm making a couple more internal stabilizing blocks with turnbuckles to make sure that the sides and ends stay in place. Tomorrow, I'll rout the channels so that the blocks can move in and out when I loosen the wingnuts. Then I'll cut the sides to length, and plane the them to height. Once that's done, I can glue the neck and tail blocks into place.
I've decided that I'm going to make 3 wider and taller "bending blocks", which I'll be able to install onto the mold for bending purposes. After bending, I'll replace them with the regular blocks.
This is the mold that I made. I still need to finish it. I'm going to rout channels so that all of the blocks are adjustable, but before doing the routing, I went ahead and bent the sides to the mold.
I used a small steam generator with a hose, which I aimed at each curve. Once I bent each curve, I used blocks to hold it in place while I worked on a different area. I bent the waist, then the upper bout, ending with the lower bout.
I'm going to leave it in the mold overnight. I'm making a couple more internal stabilizing blocks with turnbuckles to make sure that the sides and ends stay in place. Tomorrow, I'll rout the channels so that the blocks can move in and out when I loosen the wingnuts. Then I'll cut the sides to length, and plane the them to height. Once that's done, I can glue the neck and tail blocks into place.
I've decided that I'm going to make 3 wider and taller "bending blocks", which I'll be able to install onto the mold for bending purposes. After bending, I'll replace them with the regular blocks.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
MaineGeezer
- Posts: 1719
- Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:14 pm
Re: New Project. 00-12 Fret with Engelmann/Cherry
That's a very deep body...or have you not profiled the sides yet?
Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
-
Diane Kauffmds
- Posts: 3256
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Re: New Project. 00-12 Fret with Engelmann/Cherry
I've not profiled them yet. I'm going to use a small plane to profile them.MaineGeezer wrote:That's a very deep body...or have you not profiled the sides yet?