A more-or-less copy of a Martin OM

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MaineGeezer
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After a high-stress hour or so, a slotted fingerboard

Post by MaineGeezer »

Thanks in part to the generous folks who responded to my query in the "beginner's questions" section about making a fingerboard, I think I've got it correct. 21 fret slots for a 25.4" scale, 0.120" deep, 0.023" wide.

I notice I haven't posted the latest shot of the headstock. It is just about done. I cut the string entrance ramps and cut the top ogee curve.
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johnnparchem
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Re: A more-or-less copy of a Martin OM

Post by johnnparchem »

I like the shape of the head stock.
MaineGeezer
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Motivation for the headstock design

Post by MaineGeezer »

I'm glad you like it.

I searched quite a bit and experimented with different designs to get something that seems to be unique, or at least very uncommon. Searching the Internet, I didn't find any example of a headstock with an ogee top. so that's what I chose to do. (Now you guys will tell me about a dozen other builders with similar headstock designs!)
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Kevin Sjostrand
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Re: A more-or-less copy of a Martin OM

Post by Kevin Sjostrand »

Oh Gee, I think I've seen that headstock design somewhere before. :)
Just kidding. Looks really nice.
MaineGeezer
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Sanding the radius into the fingerboard

Post by MaineGeezer »

The first thing was to make a sanding block with a 16" radius in it. I did that by calculating offsets every 0.1" and making a series of passes with a ball end mill on the milling machine. The resultant surface was like a washboard, of course, but the humps were small and the surface was easily sanded to a smooth curve.

In retrospect, I should have made it longer so it would self-align better. If I get sufficiently inspired, I may make another, longer one. It takes a while, but it's not particularly difficult. Just a lot of table cranking on the milling machine to make all the passes.
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When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
MaineGeezer
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Re: The radiused fingerboard.

Post by MaineGeezer »

It took a while, but I think it's straight and correct.
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tippie53
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Re: A more-or-less copy of a Martin OM

Post by tippie53 »

looks like it is taking shape nicely
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MaineGeezer
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Re: A more-or-less copy of a Martin OM

Post by MaineGeezer »

I hope so. The radius at the "high" end of the fretboard is a bit too deep on one side, I think. I'll have to put it on my surface plate to be sure.

In retrospect, I think it would have been beneficial to leave the board about an inch long on both ends that could be cut off after profiling, to get rid of any wonkiness at the ends.

I see Carter tomorrow, for the Offical assessment.
Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
MaineGeezer
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Fingerboard tapered and bound.

Post by MaineGeezer »

Getting binding to look good is really hard! At least it proves so for me. I used StewMac's #20 (medium viscosity) superglue with accelerant. It worked quite well.

The fingerboard is done (I hope) except for frets and inlays. I'm not sure about inlays. I'd like some elegant abalone, but I suspect anything more complicated than a dot is beyond my skill level.
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Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
MaineGeezer
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:14 pm

Slot for truss rod cut in neck.

Post by MaineGeezer »

I've cut the slot for the truss rod. I bought the truss rod at the luthier supply store at the Martin guitar factory. It's a Martin truss rod for an OM. Little did I know at the time that Martin truss rods are unique. But Carter assures me it will work. Because of the slotted peghead I'm opting for through-the-soundhole adjustment.

The small brass nail through the fretboard that you see is for alignment. There's another one at the first fret. They guarantee that when the fiingerboard gets glued, the alignment won't slip.
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Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
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