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For the record, I finally started this guitar yesterday.
I decided to use Sapele for the B & S, and Western cedar for the top. I got the sides bent and in the mold. Not much but a start!
Pics to come.

Kevin

So I thicknessed the back plates, and I have readings at .110 down to .090" one side to the next..........my thickness sander is screwing up!!
I'm going to use it as this guitar is a OM body, not very deep, and I want it light anyway, but I'm going to have to see what's going on with my drum sander. 20 thousands is alot! from one side to the next. .005" I could live with but not this. Arg!

Kevin

I have the sides in the form with the end blocks glued in, and I sanded the top edge of the rims flat tonight, ready for kerfing there.

Kevin

Is the 0.020" difference from the middle to the edge? If so, just place the thick part in the middle and it may do fine (unsure about cedar).

Hey Darryl, yes so I joined the thicker dimension at the center. It will be fine with the bracing.
The cedar I haven't touched yet. I believe it is around .180" so I have to bring it down about a 1/16" or less. I will probably do it by hand, unless I get my drum sander adjusted before then.

I have been able to start working on this guitar again. I have the back braced at a 15ft. radius, same as I use on my steel string guitars. They are also 5/16" wide. I will shape them at about 1/2" tall at the peak and the standard scalloped ends.

I have the kerfing in the guitar. I have the neck and end blocks currently with a radius on them, but as I am watching Robbie O'briens Classical guitar building videos, I believe what I am going to do is radius the top at 30ft and then see how high above the rims I am at the bridge area. It should be around 3/16". I am thinking if I set the neck angle flat, with a 1/4" fretboard without, I'll be at 7/16" over the saddle area. If I make the bridge 1/2" tall, then I can end up with a saddle that is somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4" tall and have a clearance of 1/8" at the 12th fret. I know this is not all exact, but I'll work with it as I go, and adjust where necessary. With the body built, then I'll approach the neck set and bridge like a classical guitar. I still think I'll but a slight radius on the fretboard, perhaps 20ft.
Still not sure about the neck, I have spanish cedar, honduras mahogany, and even sapele (which may be too heavy for this guitar, but I've seen some classicals being sold using sapele necks!!) I can use. I also not sure if I want the weight of a truss rod in there, but may decide on a two way rod.
So the experiment continues.

Kevin

I made this headstock template last night from hard maple. I will use the technique that Robbie O'brien uses to route around the template and the slots; he uses a drill blank ground with a cutting edge on the end in his drill press.
I'm going to practice on a piece of scrap first!

Kevin

I did a practice run routing out the headstock with the drill press drill blank make into a cutter. I had a 1/4" drill blank that I used, but I think it might be a little too big, taking too big a bite when cutting. A smaller diameter bit may be better for a smoother, finer cut so I've ordered some 3/16" stock.
Here is my practice attempt. It made a good copy out of the poplar piece.

Kevin

Nice work!...

Sincerely,
Rich

Looks good Kevin!