A nylon string crossover......

[Kevin Sjostrand]

For the record, I finally started this guitar yesterday.
I decided to use Sapele for the B & S, and Western cedar for the top. I got the sides bent and in the mold. Not much but a start!
Pics to come.

Kevin

[Kevin Sjostrand]

So I thicknessed the back plates, and I have readings at .110 down to .090" one side to the next..........my thickness sander is screwing up!!
I'm going to use it as this guitar is a OM body, not very deep, and I want it light anyway, but I'm going to have to see what's going on with my drum sander. 20 thousands is alot! from one side to the next. .005" I could live with but not this. Arg!

Kevin

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I have the sides in the form with the end blocks glued in, and I sanded the top edge of the rims flat tonight, ready for kerfing there.

Kevin

[Darryl Young]

Is the 0.020" difference from the middle to the edge? If so, just place the thick part in the middle and it may do fine (unsure about cedar).

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Hey Darryl, yes so I joined the thicker dimension at the center. It will be fine with the bracing.
The cedar I haven't touched yet. I believe it is around .180" so I have to bring it down about a 1/16" or less. I will probably do it by hand, unless I get my drum sander adjusted before then.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I have been able to start working on this guitar again. I have the back braced at a 15ft. radius, same as I use on my steel string guitars. They are also 5/16" wide. I will shape them at about 1/2" tall at the peak and the standard scalloped ends.

I have the kerfing in the guitar. I have the neck and end blocks currently with a radius on them, but as I am watching Robbie O'briens Classical guitar building videos, I believe what I am going to do is radius the top at 30ft and then see how high above the rims I am at the bridge area. It should be around 3/16". I am thinking if I set the neck angle flat, with a 1/4" fretboard without, I'll be at 7/16" over the saddle area. If I make the bridge 1/2" tall, then I can end up with a saddle that is somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4" tall and have a clearance of 1/8" at the 12th fret. I know this is not all exact, but I'll work with it as I go, and adjust where necessary. With the body built, then I'll approach the neck set and bridge like a classical guitar. I still think I'll but a slight radius on the fretboard, perhaps 20ft.
Still not sure about the neck, I have spanish cedar, honduras mahogany, and even sapele (which may be too heavy for this guitar, but I've seen some classicals being sold using sapele necks!!) I can use. I also not sure if I want the weight of a truss rod in there, but may decide on a two way rod.
So the experiment continues.

Kevin

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I made this headstock template last night from hard maple. I will use the technique that Robbie O'brien uses to route around the template and the slots; he uses a drill blank ground with a cutting edge on the end in his drill press.
I'm going to practice on a piece of scrap first!

Kevin

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I did a practice run routing out the headstock with the drill press drill blank make into a cutter. I had a 1/4" drill blank that I used, but I think it might be a little too big, taking too big a bite when cutting. A smaller diameter bit may be better for a smoother, finer cut so I've ordered some 3/16" stock.
Here is my practice attempt. It made a good copy out of the poplar piece.

Kevin

[justrfb]

Nice work!...

Sincerely,
Rich

[Darryl Young]

Looks good Kevin!