Blues Creek Gibson L1 replica in figured maple

[Dave Sayers]

It is finally time to start the Gibson L1 replica build from Blues Creek guitars. In figured Maple the top back and sides are stunning.
Tomorrow I shall Spring clean the workshop after the last build, change the dust extraction filters and check the tools.
Overall my impression of this kit is that the components are top quality (With one exception), but I will be substituting the machine heads for enclosed black ones to contrast with the Maple.
I have the body mould ready (English spelling).

[Dave Sayers]

I don't know if you can see it but there is a distinct lip between the join of the neck to the neck block. I don't mind working it down but if this was my first build I might not have known to.

I'm not entirely sure that there is enough fret wire also. I really do not want to have to pull out all the frets from an ebony fingerboard because I can't get the right wire if I run short.
Other than those two quibbles, (And the plastic bits, but that's just me) it is a lovely kit and I shall probably have nightmares all the way through the build.

[johnnparchem]

I am confused about your statement with regard to the neck and block. I am not sure what sort of alignment you would be looking for at this stage There will be a top and the rims between where the neck ends up and the block. I would not trim anything from the top of the block at this point.

Looks like plenty of fret wire.

[tippie53]

that is by design the neck block is under the top and the neck will be flush with the top.

[Dave Sayers]

I shall put the fretboard on top and see if it lays flush.

[Dave Sayers]

List of jobs to be done before actually beginning to build. Trim neck block top and bottom, and check correct angle for the where the neck block meets the soundboard and backboard. At the moment it protrudes above the top of the neck, and will need to be trimmed so the fretboard will be flush with the soundboard. With the soundboard resting in place its obvious quite a careful adjustment is going to be needed. The tail block needs only minimal adjustment.

The bracing is very generously sized so that can be trimmed down, although I won't be scalloping it for this guitar.

Cut some scrap neck wood and practice make the old Gibson style headstock.

Once the body is all together I can fit the neck and trim it, then reduce the heel if it needs it so that it stays in proportion.

[tippie53]

You do have plenty of fret wire be sure you reference the videos on you tube. You set the block in a little proud of the sides and sand the neck angle into the sides. You can do this a few ways , if you don't have the radius disks you can put sandpaper on the end of a stick , with the sides in a mold put about 1/4 to 3/8 in block on the tail then sand the rims using that block as the point for the block and sand the rim the approximate length of the fretboard extension , that will create the angle you need.

[ruby@magpage.com]

I have only done 3 guitars, but this is what I have learned - you can't glue the sides onto the neck block in exactly the right position up and down - too much going on to get the number right. But you CAN enlarge the bolt holes in the block to allow the neck to be a bit higher or a bit lower. So do your best and let the round rasp do the rest.

Ed Minch

[tippie53]

One trick to help you is to put tape on the joint to align the sides before gluing the block. also trim off the back part the top is the critical point

[Dave Sayers]

I put a staple in the left and right sides of the neck and back joints and cut it off very nearly flush. It is enough to hold the sides in place without slipping while gluing. I also intend to build two attachments to the body mould to enable me to clamp the neck and tail blocks in place effectively while in the mould. I probably won't be putting a pick guard on this guitar but if I do it will be pressure laminated burr walnut to contrast with the maple like this one, but a shape suited to the guitar.
This is my last build no 4 and it is for plectrum and fingerstyle. I pressure laminated the pick guard out of burr walnut veneer. I like the shape I designed, it seemed to fit well. So what if the picks might wear it down over the next x number of years. I can always put another bit on top. Plastic? Not fantastic.
Wood is good.

Want to feel jealous? We have things called boot sales in England. I picked up 25 full leaf (1.5 yard long by .7 yard sod that lets do metres, much saner, 1.5 meters long and 70cm wide burr walnut veneer sheets for £50. (77 dollars)
That might come in handy, I thought. It has. Now I have an engineer who is prepared to laser cut pick guards out of pressure laminated burr walnut in exchange for some flame sapele.