Walnut and curly redwood

[SKBarbour]

My understanding is that figured tops are less stiff along the length of the grain. That causes the bridge to be more likely to roll, causing a belly under the soundhole. I made the top slighly thicker than what most would use on a redwood top(.125"), and made the bridge plate a little wider from neck to tail block. I also made the braces a little taller than I normally would, I didn't want to make them wider. Will this be effective? Did I need to be worried in the first place? I don't know but why not try it out and see how she sounds?

[Dave Sayers]

I want a top like that. I won't care if it goes wrong eventually, but I'll bet it doesn't if you've weighed up the pro's and con's. I looks gorgeous.

[Darryl Young]

I'm enjoying watching your work......thanks for posting the progress pictures!

[SKBarbour]

Thanks for the nice comments guys. Here are a couple of more pics to show my slow but sure progress. I have the neck carved and just needs some good sanding. Bolted the neck on to get a feel for her. Love it so far. It's going to be hard to give it up.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Looks great Kyle. Nice pearl.

Kevin

[SKBarbour]

Just starting on the French polish. I'm using Obrien's process from the online class. It's well worth the money for those interested in giving FP a try. I know FP is not as durable a finish as nitro but I love how it looks and I really enjoy the process. Here is a pic after the first polish session before any leveling.

[Mitch]

Looking real nice Kyle.

Seeing this (and your last one) it's obvious you've got the knack for French polishing. What exactly does the "first polishing session" consist of?

Mitch

[SKBarbour]

Thanks Mitch. There are a lot of different methods for the FP technique. The O'brien course is great because he walks you through step by step almost in real time. In his method your applying the shellac with a small pad of linen wrapped around a piece of cheese cloth. The thing to keep in mind is that the applications go on very dry. The shellac should be dry to the touch moments after it goes on. He teaches to build up a few coats of shellac applying with the grain. Once that is done you charge the pad and apply more coats until the pad starts to dry. At this point you use oil to lubricate the pad and you rub in a circular motion to help spread the coats out a bit. When that starts to dry out you run the pad with the grain to almost burnish the finish.
There's a lot more to it, but I guess this gives you a basic idea. Again if your looking to try FP, I can't begin to tell you how helpful his course is. If your interested I'd be happy to meet with you to show you some as well.

[ruby@magpage.com]

Kyle

The guitar looks great,and as usual, I am jealous oaf your FP. I took your advice and used the KMT on my last one and liked it a l ot.

We should all get together soon - maybe your place?

Ed Minch

[SKBarbour]

Ed, glad the finish worked out for you, it certainly looks good.
If you all would like, we can pick a day the end of this month or beginning of February to get together over here. Friday evenings or Sunday afternoons would probably be best for me. Maybe later Saturday afternoons depending on what days. Maybe we can do a little French polishing on some stuff so you all can get a feel for it. Let me know.