A pair

[B. Howard]

After drying out for at least 10 days, longer in this case, it's time to sand and buff. Here are a few of my favorite things at this time. A small bowl of water with a sponge in it, a squeegee and a rubber eraser. The eraser makes a great sanding block, especially for any drop fills that were done after spraying. The sponge in the water is very helpful to clean seeds off your paper as you sand. Just tap your paper and block on it to knock off the seeds.

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I also use some of my cork lined blocks for this, and don't be afraid to use some abrasives. Clean fresh abrasives will give the best job with the minimum of effort.

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So this is what it looks like when I start.

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[B. Howard]

I start out with 400 wet dry and work up through the grits, 600, 800, 1000, 1200. At that point I am ready to buff. Here is what I am looking for with the 400. I am not looking for absolutely flay at this point. I want to knock down a majority of the high spots, about 60% of them.

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With each grit I change my sanding pattern, with the grain, circles, across the grain, etc. I like to finish out with the grain. That way any scuffs from seeds or errant scratches will disappear into the grain when buffed. I also alternate my direction when buffing, starting across the grain and across my last sanding pattern and finishing with my finest compound with the grain for the same reason. I buff with Menzerna and an arbor with 14" wheels. here we are all buffed out. They will need cleaned and will get a light re-buff when they have there necks set , frets leveled and filed and bridges glued on. That way any small scratches from final assembly can be taken care of.

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[Darryl Young]

Those look great Brian.

I'm very impressed with your work!

[ruby@magpage.com]

Brian
The shot of the back leveled with 400 is VERY helpful. I have sanded through too many times and I am willing to bet it is because I have leveled flat with 400 and then taken more off with the finer grits.
Thanks
Ed Minch