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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2019 6:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 21, 2015 9:43 pm
Posts: 66
Just checking in to keep this train rolling (or rather getting it moving again from a long standstill). I wonder what is the record for the project that took the longest...

I have made some progress that hasn't been posted here yet. I have a closed box, a dovetail mortise, a neck blank, scarf joint and heel block done. I'll have to post some pics and a recap.

A question has arisen: where do you usually put the trussrod in relation to the length of the neck? Does it start around the first fret? I see a lot of different ways out there.


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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2019 9:18 am 
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Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
Posts: 1079
Location: Chestertown Maryland
The first project I started the year we were married in 1971 was a large free-standing cabinet about 4-1/2 feet tall with 4 drawers and 2 doors under. Nothing but pretty clear oiled pine. I got it done but for the drawers and put in in my shop using the drawer area for shelves. 2 years ago, 2017, my youngest daughter got married and said she would like to have it, so I made the drawers and gave it to her. I am sure this is not the record, but 46 years is not nuthin'. Remember Notre Dame cathedral took 200 years.

Ed


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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2019 1:51 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Posts: 1860
Talladam wrote:
A question has arisen: where do you usually put the trussrod in relation to the length of the neck? Does it start around the first fret? I see a lot of different ways out there.


I've honestly not really noticed where the truss rod hits as far as fret number. Just make sure that the widened end, where the allen wrench fits, which is about the last ~ 3/4-1", extends beyond the dovetail/bolt-on tenon.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2019 6:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 21, 2015 9:43 pm
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Just wanted to get this updated to where I am at the moment. I glued the back on without incident. I removed the overhang with a flush trim router bit, which I was nervous of but went fine. I actually have 1/32" or so still hanging over. I'm not sure why this is, it may be because I had tape on the sides to prevent the bearing from marking up my sides. The rest should be taken off by the router bit for the binding. I actually have a friend who is going to let me use his binding jig, so I'm a bit relieved that I don't have to build one. I probably will someday, but maybe I'll learn something about it from how he built his.

I am also partway through the neck. I started with a piece of poplar to get the hang of the neck construction. I found dimensioning the neck blank with a hand plane quite tricky. I figure if anything needs to be square and straight it is the neck, so I took my time. I did a scarf joint on the poplar blank first. I considered many ways to do this with the tools I have, but in the end I just set my bandsaw up and cut it freehand. I put a 1/2" 3TPI blade on it awhile ago and it really made the thing work nicely. The scarf joint on the poplar blank ended up with a bit of a visible glue joint when all was clamped together, so when the time came to repeat it with the mahogany blank I spent alot of time making sure that the surfaces mated perfectly. It's very easy to create a high spot in the middle of a surface, then when gluing one side of the joint looks super tight. In the case of the scarf joint, the other side was clamped down to a straight board thus the slightly crappy joint. I did a better job on the mahogany blank and am happy with the joint.

At this point I took out the chunk of mahogany for the neck heel (one solid block) and realized it had cracked. Upon investigating, it seemed like the crack extended a ways into the block so I had to get a new piece of Mahogany. I don't know if the piece was poorly dried when I received it or if it was a victim of my dry house. I bought a new piece that was 1" thick and decided to make a stacked heel. Unfortunately this piece is a slightly different shade than the original blank so I'll either have to live with the color difference or do some staining. Making sure all the little pieces of the stacked heel fit together to avoid a gappy joint was trickier than expected and I spent a good bit of time planing and using a flat sanding board before I was satisfied. The joints were all great until I realized I had glued the block to the very end of the neck blank without considering that the blank was over length! After stepping back for awhile I realized the curve of the heel wouldn't work the way the block was so I cut the block off with the bandsaw, replaned both surfaces and glued them back together. Still looks nice and tight. I'll post a few pics here and do another update in awhile.


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