Side Templates

[scamp]

I am collecting all the tools, jigs, etc. necessary to build a Martin 12 fret M36 (0000) body style guitar from scratch. John Hall has indicated he has the halo/bracing templates for the top and back which I plan to order so that's covered. My question is about the sides. I know the basic dimensions of the guitar so I know the lower and upper body depth approximately but that's about it. I could try and figure out the basic shape of the sides knowing the width of the sides at the upper and lower bout and taking into account the shape of the guitar as well as the curvature of the top and back but that isn't easy. I guess I could also just cut the sides rectangular and a bit wider than the maximum lower/upper bout dimension and then use the radiused sanding disks to sand them down to shape. Does any one have any suggestions on the best way to proceed??

[jread]

This is how I do sides. Seems match about what you are describing. Just cut the sides a bit wider than your known profile then sand down with radius.

I start with precisely sized neck and tail blocks and lay them down on the sides to mark the cut lines about 1/16" larger than the blocks. I draw a line straight to the waist then turn to form triangle down to the neck block. I cut that on the band-saw leaving a few inches long at each end then trim to fit the mold using band saw.

here's standard Martin depths.
https://www.maurysmusic.com/martin_by_body_size

[scamp]

Thanks a lot. Very helpful.
I looked at the templates sold by LMI and they seem to follow this type of pattern.

I do have a question about your feedback, however.

You say to start with precisely sized neck and tail blocks.
I could use some clarification on this.

Are you suggesting that the neck and tail blocks be exactly the finished guitar lower and upper bout depth dimension?

I am asking because it was my understanding that the blocks should be slightly taller than the finished bout dimension since when radius sanding the top and bottom you want to sand the entire head and tail block tops and bottoms to have the appropriate radius. This way the top and bottom of the guitar will be glued to the entire top and bottom of the tail and neck blocks vs just the outside edges of the blocks.

As a result, I was planning on making the head and tail blocks about 0.2 inches taller than the target depth dimension.

Does this make sense and how do you define the precise neck and tail block dimension.

Thanks
Scamp

[tippie53]

If you use the dishes you can use 2 templates one for the basic smaller bodies like the 000 on down and the dred. I have just these 2
I then bend and true using the discs its close enough

[scamp]

If you use the dishes you can use 2 templates one for the basic smaller bodies like the 000 on down and the dred. I have just these 2
I then bend and true using the discs its close enough

Thanks.

I want to build an M36 (0000) body style guitar.
It has the width of a Jumbo but the depth of an OM/OOO.
Which of the 2 templates would you use for this?
I would assume the one for the 000 and smaller as long as its long enough for the outline of the jumbo.

Scamp

[jread]

I avoided giving exact height of the blocks. It sorta depends on how much you tend to sand into your blocks. I don't sand with the disks until the entire top and bottom surface of the blocks are sanded to match the radius of the dish. As you mentioned, if you do that, you need to make them taller to start. I sand my blocks so that only about 1/2 the block hits the sanding disk. Yes, this leaves a small gap between at the front of the block and the inside of the top and bottom but I find this is plenty of gluing surface to hold the top down.

So for me, I take the thickness of the finished guitar and subtract about .1 to .15 and cut my blocks. This gives me little room too sand off the blocks then when adding the top and back, you should be close to your desired total thickness. I don't worry about hitting exact thickness. I've made one a little thin and it sounds great. Others I've made extra thick and I like them too. As long as they fit in the case.

I do what John says, my pre-bend cut doesn't need to be exact. The dish will even it out. The key is getting your blocks sized right for your build and sanding preferences.

[tippie53]

yes the 000/0m one
the dred is basically its one and only