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I've decided it makes more sense to ask one question at a time, rather than a whole list in one post.

After asking around, I'm finding that Gorilla Glue, the non-foaming yellow glue, is more-or-less equivalent to Titebond III and I shouldn't be using it on a guitar. My guess is that this is because it would be impossible to take it apart in the future if the need arises.

So far, I've used the Gorilla Glue on the sides to end blocks and braces and tone bars to the top. I now have the Titebond Original, but am wondering about the implications of using the wrong stuff up to this point.

Going forward, is there anything other than the binding and perfling that I should not be glueing with Titebond Original.

And what should I use on the binding? I've seen YouTube videos that suggest both Duco and/or CA. Any opinions based on experience?

Can't generalize. Plastic bindings need different glue than wood bindings. Same for purfling. Wood products are very happy with Titebond Original, for example.

no gorilla glue
tite bond original for wood to wood
fish glue and hot hide glue are animal protein casein glues are the best for tone and repair it is easy to reglue these
elmers white
plastic to wood
duco cement and weld on
not a fan of super glue on binding but you can use it

I use Duco cement for plastic.

I've switched to CA for bindings because you can get the pieces into position just how you like them, then glue them. Duco works fine but is a mess to use

Chiming in on the CA vs Duco on binding. I've used both. As Ed says, CA is really nice for installing them as you can tape the whole set of binding/purfling in place ensuring a perfect fit before you put any glue on. Then wick in CA and it comes out just great. Just be sure to seal your wood and channels very well with shellac. CA will discolor light woods if it is not sealed. Pay special attn to the end grains as it wants to suck into the pores and will discolor the wood well into the top or back. I seal with 3-4 layers of a lightly mixed shellac, clean my channels and make them very neat before installing and had no issues. I've done that with both celluloid and rosewood bindings.

However, this does make things a bit harder if you want or need to remove the binding later which of course should be a rare exception. I am replacing a top on my 1st build now and taking off the binding that was put on with duco was easier. I think I will try duco again next time but they both work just fine, just present different challenges.

tried both methods
put me down for duco
the more I do this the less I use CA

the more I do this the less I use CA

Do you still use CA for joining backs?

on rosewood I do
I don't use CA on tops and binding rosettes
there are so many types not
GluBoost was a fan at first had too many bad experiences with this
Starbond is my go to brand
I will use this on poly glues and urathanes

tippie53 wrote:on rosewood I do
I don't use CA on tops and binding rosettes
there are so many types not
GluBoost was a fan at first had too many bad experiences with this
Starbond is my go to brand
I will use this on poly glues and urathanes

John, you don't use Gluboost anymore? What problems,?