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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2019 11:06 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2019 9:52 am
Posts: 68
I'll pay for 2nd noobie question w/ these pics of current status. Backs are not glued on The dred is looking great. I plan to round the center strip edges and add some marks or stamp for myself before I glue them on.

The Stella's (repair guitar) original braces were just sanded a little for now and put back on. I moved them slightly so they would inlet into the rim. The new birch back and top are sweet. They are a lil crooked on the Stella. Live and learn how to use the home made go deck.

You may wonder at that bridge plate on the old guitar. The original guitar had the holes filled in and a floating bridge so back on it goes.


So my questions for the Kit. I know this has been covered but am not deciding. I understand what to do for the brace inlets on the rim but am having trouble deciding on which to inlet along the X. Thought maybe i'd get some opinions.

1937 D18, forward x. - 1st build

Inlet bridge plate and/or finger bracing into the x? Seems I've decided not to inlet tone bars into the X or rim but let me know if that is common as well.

Also: I realized I still need a slot for the tuss rod on the head block on the kit. No problem adding that later I assume. I didn't think to shape it before gluing it on. I like the rounded sides but now need to go in with a router. Prob woulda been better to do before gluing.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2019 12:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 4:19 pm
Posts: 55
Location: Forest Ranch, CA
I wouldn't inlet the bridge plate because if it needed future replacement (they do crack or get chewed up by the string ends). Since you haven't done the tone arms, why do the finger braces?

I inlet the upper arm of the x brace and UTB into the rim but not the lower arm or the other braces. Taper the ends away to nothing near the rim.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2019 2:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2019 9:52 am
Posts: 68
Thank you! I know there are tons of resources online but I got hung up. I like this plan. Onward!


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 20, 2019 7:48 am 
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Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
Posts: 1144
Location: Chestertown Maryland
Remember that you will find an advocate or two of inletting any or all of the braces. Seems like everything is right and nothing is wrong. I inlet both ends of X's and the UTB.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 20, 2019 5:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 4:19 pm
Posts: 55
Location: Forest Ranch, CA
The website logged me out and deleted my reply when I hit the submit button, so I'll try again.

I have built six martin parts guitars, one a jumbo kit from John and five dreads from some big boxes of parts I got 15 years ago on ebay. I tucked the lower x arms on the first three and tapered them away before the rim on the last three. These were louder and more balanced in tone than the first. Other than the jumbo, they had the same backs, sides, tops, bracing, necks, fingerboards and bridges, so I keep doing it that way.

By the way, I've still got quite a few slotted, ebony fingerboard seconds so if anyone needs some, pm me.

Carl


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2019 7:53 am 
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Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
Posts: 1144
Location: Chestertown Maryland
PM sent

Ed


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2019 12:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2012 9:49 pm
Posts: 262
This is a good example of the need for caution when asking questions that will get a large audience: There's gonna be a wide variety of answers, many in contradiction. Ask two luthiers a question and get four answers, I've heard someplace.

My suggestion for OP is to give Mr. Hall (I think he's the source for the kit) the question and follow his advice. If the kit has written instructions, follow those.

_________________
peter havriluk


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 11:52 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2019 9:52 am
Posts: 68
much appreciated. I get caught up in over-analyzing decisions like this. I have done a lot of research but got hung up on the lower X. I feel in good shape now. I've got all of them glued in and am working towards trimming making the inlets.


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