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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 7:00 am 
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Joined: Tue May 09, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 14
Hi Everyone

I decided to remove the xbraces from the the top to do a better job of getting them lined up correctly. I watched John's video of removing back braces from a conversion guitar. Thanks John for that video because it helped alot.

When I finally got them removed (and it was not difficult) I see this in the pictures below...

Attachment:
top_indentions2.JPG


This was after some sanding with 220 grit to remove try and remove them. I guess it is the Go Bar rods from Stew Mac. They are stiff but I did not expect it to do this. I guess I am going to need to make some adjustments to the deck or rods. I didn't think I had the base too high

Do you suggest still using this top by sanding them down or purchase a new top and start over?

Thanks

-Pat


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 7:15 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:50 am
Posts: 424
Location: Chadds Ford, PA
IMHO, the top is compromised. If it were mine I would do a new top. I'm guessing the experts will diagnose too much pressure from the go-bar deck. All I can say is wow.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 8:47 am 
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How thick is the top? If it's around ~ .100 or higher I think you're okay. The top may not be as pristine as you like from the inside, but as long as the braces make good contact in their new position, I think you're okay.

You can take dents out by using a wet cloth or paper towels, along with a soldering iron. You'll be shocked how those compressed fibers pop right back. Here is the video. https://youtu.be/pDSQ7u_ii00

I think your top will be okay.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 9:34 am 
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Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
Posts: 638
Location: Chestertown Maryland
I am a general woodworker as well as a guitar builder, and I was shown a trick by an interior finish carpenter that I learned under in the 1970's. If you dent the wood, just put a glob of saliva on the area and move on. By the time you come back to it, it will be dry and the dent will be gone. Only occasionally do I have to resort to heat, and that is usually just a bit of water heated in the microwave dropped on. I dent my instrument wood all the time - I actually have 10 thumbs - and this works for me.

For something the size of the compression you have, I would put a wet (not damp, wet) rag over it and use a clothes iron. The soldering iron would take forever. And I wouldn't mind if it wasn't perfect - save that for future instruments and just get this one done.

Ed


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 9:46 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:14 pm
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Yeah, I bet you can steam those dents out pretty easily. I think I'd prefer a soldering iron to a clothes iron so the heat and steam are localized where you want it, although I have no evidence that the broader heat area of a clothes iron would cause any problems.

One thing you could do, if you find a soldering iron taking too long, would be to get about a 3/4" square by about 6" long metal bar -- ideally brass, but steel would work and be a lot cheaper. Heat the bar on your kitchen stove and put that on a wet cloth lined up on top of the dents.

I think you would find, though, that a soldering iron of decent size will be fast enough not to try your patience too much.

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Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 11:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2012 9:49 pm
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I've found that using heat-shrink irons sold to shrink model airplane covering to be very useful in dent steaming. Inexpensive and like all tools, there's more good uses for these things once they're at hand.

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peter havriluk


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 7:56 am 
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Location: Hegins, Pa
a steam iron will work wonders

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Blues Creek Guitars Inc
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 2:54 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:13 pm
Posts: 162
phavriluk wrote:
I've found that using heat-shrink irons sold to shrink model airplane covering to be very useful in dent steaming. Inexpensive and like all tools, there's more good uses for these things once they're at hand.


I agree. I use mine a lot anywhere I need a lot of concentrated heat in a small area, like for re-gluing bindings and such.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2017 5:34 am 
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Joined: Tue May 09, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 14
Thanks everyone for the replies and ideas...

I used a steam iron - results were not good. I placed a wet cloth over the area and heated it with the steam iron. I am guessing the heat needed to be concentrated on the exact area that was affected. After applying the steam iron to it the top curled/bowed and when it dried it bent/bowed the other way and has stayed that way. I will not post the pictures - its not pretty. I saved the top in case it can be used later as repair wood.

Anyway I decided to purchase another top and try again. Lesson learned here understand the pressure that a Go Bar deck can apply and use heat in small amounts.

-Pat


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2017 5:44 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:14 pm
Posts: 943
You should be able to flatten out the warped top. If it warped one way, it will warp back the other way. If you're fed up with it though, move on. This is supposed to be fun, not aggravation.

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Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.


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