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Re: Abalone Inlay

Posted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 10:09 pm
by Kbore
Absolutely stunning work y'all.

Re: Abalone Inlay

Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 9:06 am
by Kbore
With the torch, how is the layout transferred to the work? Does it come with a template? You don't remove each tiny piece from the carrier one at a time and trace do you?

Re: Abalone Inlay

Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 10:13 am
by Danl8
For my first time, I drew a center-line on the peg head and cross lines (a grid formation) based on a full-size print of a Martin torch. Then removed the pieces and arranged them on the peghead and one by one traced them with a very thin lead mechanical pencil. Some tack glue the pieces on the wood so they don't move in tracing. With later attempts, I shellacked the head and sanded lightly which seemed to show the pencil line better. If you do this, I would add another light coat to seal the line which can be smeared during routing.

Re: Abalone Inlay

Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 10:20 pm
by Kbore
Danl8,
Thanks for the DePaule recommendation, torch is ordered.

Re: Abalone Inlay

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 6:45 am
by Diane Kauffmds
Kbore wrote:With the torch, how is the layout transferred to the work? Does it come with a template? You don't remove each tiny piece from the carrier one at a time and trace do you?
You'll want to make you're own template, per your plans. Draw the peghead carefully onto the headplate, including the tuner holes. I like to make pilot holes in the center, using the smallest bit possible, to further mark the tuner locations. This way, their location can't be accidentally erased. Draw a center line. I like to secure the headplate with double sided tape on my work surface. It'll keep it still, but you'll be able to reposition it as needed.

I recommend that you photograph the inlay before removing it from the backing. This way you'll have a secondary reference. DePaule has instructions on their site detailing the removal of the design from the backing. I like to use clear packing tape. Put a piece of the tape over the design. Trace the general outline with an x-acto blade (you dont have to be precise. Just go around the design). Soak the design in warm water. It will release. Make sure they're all clean on the bottom.

It's up to you how you lay them out. On this design, I prefer to work with each design "unit". First you'll want to position the entire design on the template, aligning it with the center line and your tuner hole location. Once you're satisfied, mark the location of the top of the design, for reference. Start with the top dot, position it and trace it. Do this with each unit, or piece. If you make a mistake, erase with sandpaper, not an eraser.

John taught me a good trick for routing the inlay. Using your smallest bit in your inlay tool, carefully place holes marking every point, corner, etc. Basically, you'll be "connecting the dots". This makes it a lot easier to rout the design accurately. Rout the inside of the design, up to your outline. Check the fit of the piece. It'll be tight. Once you verify the work to this point, rout just enough that your outline disappears. Check the fit again. It should still be very tight. Holding your piece on the routed area, outline with pencil, each area that's too tight for the piece, then route it out. You'll do this a lot. Take your time.

Look for John Hallls videos on inlaying. They're a great help. I drew a funky picture, illustrating what I meant about the holes. I like to rout even more holes. It's easier to connect the holes accurately, than to try to route long lines and curves accurately.