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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 11:51 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 17, 2016 10:47 am
Posts: 17
Location: Orangevale, California
ok, thanks John! I will check it out.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 9:57 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 22, 2015 7:43 pm
Posts: 61
The fingerboard radius and the radius of the top don't really have anything to do with each other. The angle of the neck to the top does matter. I believe you can use whatever radius you want to for your top. However, your neck angle and your bridge location have to be adjusted accordingly after the top is in place. This angle is custom to different guitar designs for sound, intonation, and functionality.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2017 5:45 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:14 pm
Posts: 943
Maybe some people can construct a guitar so the neck is at the correct angle to the body without any adjustments. I can't. When the time comes to install the neck, I spend some quality time with a straightedge, sanding blocks, a small chisel, and quite likely some assorted shims to get the neck aligned properly to the body by carefully shaving/sanding the heel of the neck where it contacts the guitar body.

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Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2017 6:27 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 7:09 pm
Posts: 5420
Location: Hegins, Pa
to control the neck block I use screws and screw it through the mold to act as a spreader. This will hold the neck square to the mold. Then when I use my sanding dish I can set the angel pretty precisely. This makes setting a neck pretty easy compared to letting it float or using an inside spreader

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Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
Board of Directors of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 11:05 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 22, 2015 7:43 pm
Posts: 61
I hear you on that. I have had an instance where I was about to sand my neck angle into the top and noticed a lot of wobble that the neck block has in the mold. If you are using a Martin style block with the 90 fork that extra piece of wood adds more leverage to the neck block which can move the angle even more. There is enough wobble to screw up a neck angle by a huge margin. I ended up making some neck to tail block spreaders. They worked for the job being but the spreader was so long any inconsistency created a torque and the force wasn't linear. Screwing the neck block to the mold seems so much simpler and effective.

And yes, lots of time setting the neck. Lots of patience is required. Getting the neck angle on the body correct does help tremendously though. John's videos are very good in explaining the whole process.


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