Wood question.

[jmforge]

New guy here. I have a vague idea about common woods suitable for back, sides, neck, etc. but I had two questions. From my other craft work, i have really developed a liking for African blackwood. How does that work as a fretboard wood and what would it compare to?
My second question is have any of you guys ever used or heard of anyone using stabilized wood for any "non stress bearing" parts of the guitar like headstock veneer, inlays, etc?

[tippie53]

yes I have seen stabilized wood on head plates.

[MaineGeezer]

I used African blackwood for the fretboard on my 2nd guitar, as well as for the bridge, head cap, and binding. It worked very well. The binding was a bit difficult to apply because it's so springy, but I managed.

You undoubtedly are aware, if you have used it before, that it is filled with black resinous sap that should be cleaned off any surface you're going to glue. I like to use the lethal variety of paint stripper to do that, followed by scraping.

See "Cherry Parlor Guitar project #2" in the build blog topic for more details of my experience using African blackwood.
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[jmforge]

I used African blackwood for the fretboard on my 2nd guitar, as well as for the bridge, head cap, and binding. It worked very well. The binding was a bit difficult to apply because it's so springy, but I managed.

You undoubtedly are aware, if you have used it before, that it is filled with black resinous sap that should be cleaned off any surface you're going to glue. I like to use the lethal variety of paint stripper to do that, followed by scraping.

See "Cherry Parlor Guitar project #2" in the build blog topic for more details of my experience using African blackwood.

I have only used it roughed up on the inside of a hole bored and reamed out of a handle using West System epoxy and some kind of mechanical fastener as backup, so adhesion to a flat surface has not been an issue. But you have just given me sage advice for another non-guitar project I am working on now where surface adhesion will be an issue. Thanks. I would love to use the stuff, one problem that I am having now is that a couple of years ago, I could consistently get 2-3 inch square pieces of the DEEP black instrument grade stuff in sticks up to 24 inches long, but those appear to be a bit thin on the ground right now. I am down to my last 3x3x6 chunk at this point. Obviously, that super black unfigured wood might not be the first choice for backs and side unless you were going to the Johnny Cash look, but for a fretboard, i would think that it would look amazing.
So what kind of lethal paint stripper do you use? I have read of people using acetone and that is what I had planned to use for my other project, but if you have a better mousetrap, i am all ear.

[MaineGeezer]

I'm not sure what brand of paint stripper I have, but I think the main thing is to avoid the non-toxic, non-flammable, biodegradable variety and get one that still has "the good stuff" in it.

I heard about using paint stripper from Carter Ruff, the luthier I took guitar-building "lessons" from. (His website is http://www.submusicworks.com if interested.) He heard about it either at Red Rocks luthier school where he went, or from Dana Bourgeois with whom he apprenticed.

Anyway, a few years ago Fine Woodworking magazine did a study of how best to prepare oily woods for gluing. As Carter remembers it, the best results were obtained by using paint stripper. Merely wiping with solvent may actually make the problem worse because (they surmised) the solvent penetrates the wood and floats more of the oil to the surface. I've not read the article, and a lot of people have good results by cleaning surfaces with solvent, but FWIW Carter recommends paint stripper, the theory being that paint stripper is designed to remove stuff from the surface of wood and leave it ready for finishing. Carter brushes on some paint stripper, covers it with plastic so it won't dry out, lets it sit about 20 minutes, then cleans it off with a scraper, with a final cleanup according to the directions on the can, and a bit off scuff sanding just prior to gluing.

I doubt you need to worry about the fingerboard joint, anyway. It's by far the biggest glue joint on a guitar, with acres of surface area. Unless your surface prep is truly terrible you ought to be fine.

I used African blackwood for the bridge of that cherry parlor guitar, and that glue joint is holding up after several months. I used hot hide glue for that.