Gluing on the fingerboard....

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tippie53
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Location: Hegins, Pa
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Re: Gluing on the fingerboard....

Post by tippie53 »

I use one but not like the martin I make mine from the neck block to the transverse brace , trapazoidal shape about 1/4 in outside the fretboard to about 1/2 . That supports the area a good bit and it is in an area that has slight tonal intact but great for structure
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
Metalone72
Posts: 48
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 3:36 pm

Re: Gluing on the fingerboard....

Post by Metalone72 »

John,
Does the piece you add have the grain going in the same direction as the top? How thick? And is it tight up against the neck block and UTB?
nkwak
Posts: 650
Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:55 pm
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs

Re: Gluing on the fingerboard....

Post by nkwak »

I can't recall but I was told to use epoxy which I did on my first. The permanence factor scared me but the intonation is close enough, though not perfect. If everybody else here is using Titebond then I will do so with the necks for nos. 2 and 3.
~ Neil
MaineGeezer
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:14 pm

Re: Gluing on the fingerboard....

Post by MaineGeezer »

I ended up using Titebond for the fingerboard, and it seems to be fine. As somebody said, that's a huge gluing surface so as long as you apply and use whatever glue you're using correctly, it's probably going to be okay.

Personally, I would avoid epoxy because it is so non-reversible, but it does work!
Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
Diane Kauffmds
Posts: 3246
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm

Re: Gluing on the fingerboard....

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

I use Titebond as well and have had good results. I also use a small amount of Duco cement under the truss rod, just enough to make sure that it stays put and doesn't rattle (I stay very clear of the end, so that it doesn't hamper adjustments).

I also sand a shallow hollow under the fretboard. The "hollow" starts where the truss rod opening starts at the top, and stops at the neck block. It extends out from the truss rod opening to within
~1/4-5/16" of each edge of the board. This way, if there are any sanding boogers that I don't notice, or the neck is't perfectly flat, the board fits snugly against the board, with no edge openings.

I started doing this after my first two fretboards showed tiny gaps in a couple of places. The hollow worked for me, and eliminated the problem.
Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
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