www.KitGuitarsForum.com

3 builds all needing binding. Time to up my game! I've been comfortable with using a laminate trimmer and just holding it with the stew bearing cutter bits. Both the Bosch Colt and Rigid. Definitely prefer the Rigid. I learned from Bill Cory's book to put a strip of wood on the base lifting the base off off the body to avoid the radius of the guitar and even made his router guide. Worked fine for several builds but I'm taking money for these guitars now and don't need any mess ups am investing in tools that will improve the fit and finish.

1st was the bender. The Blues Creek bender not only speeds the process but I'm getting nice square sides and wood binding bent easily. Next the drum sander changes everything. I use it for a lot more than thinning bodies. I was so proud of my hand planed guitars but honestly they all have issues with thin spots and some gouging. The old 80's drum sander gives consistency and speed.

Now for a binding machine. I'd probably be comfortable with a gramil but I'm this far in, I'm looking at John's offering as well as some others. The Fliechman peaks my interest.

I was fascinated at the giant can opener style cabinet they had at the Martin facility. The craftsman stuck the body onto the front like a can and around it went cutting the channel. I'm sure we'd all love to get turned loose in that place!

Oh well these go back to the shelf while I mull this over but I already know the answer.

On my first guitar I didn't even comprehend how the back taper would affect the binding channel. Binding ended up pretty thin in that area. I've looked at some of the systems you mention and may end up going with one.

Used this on two more guitars. One with a straight channel, and one with a stair step for purfling. Takes care of the radius and taper , but tilting the guitar body toward the cutter/donut can make the channel a bit wider. It first had a 3/4 straight bit , and ball bearings for rollers. The bearings had too large O.D. , let the body roll too easy, and the straight bit left a fuzzy edge. It now has a 1" down shear mortising bit and fixed 1" sliders(?) and the test cuts are promising. The benefit would be infinite adjustment for binding and purfling size with no need for specific bearings. And stores easily. Haven't used it yet but hopeful. So many different ways of doing things. Look forward to hearing about what you come up with.

I've seen a number of very respected builders, some of the best in fact, use freehand vertical setups like that. Many don't even use the bottom bearing that rides on the side. I have always admired their confidence. Scares the heck out of me just to look at that set-up. Good luck!

Bob

A whole lot of pros rave about this one

https://elevatelutherie.com/product/ult ... nding-jig/

I have a wooden version I have used on all 9 of my instruments with complete success and, after the first one, complete confidence.

Thanks. That seems like a good method. I've ordered the Fliechman from Blues Creek. It is not cheap and I considered making one. But, these builds are funded. There's a couple of masters that I consider mentors who use it so that decided it for me. In for a penny at this point. My investments are about seeing if I can get that fit and finish to a professional level. I'm a ways off still. I'm sure we all feel the same and see only faults in our builds.

I did build an equivalent to the Fleishman, Having done it, the price John charges for one looks pretty cheap!

It works really well -- you'll like ti.

Surely I didn't mean it was overpriced. His stuff is super. And lots of work saved. Always in fan of that.

Couldn't be happier with my new Blues Creek Fleishman binding machine. The rigid trimmer is excellent and has a very fine and easy adjustment wheel. I was able to get the vertical depth of the channels to be almost dead flush. I had very little scraping to do after gluing the binding. Admittedly, I think I can do better next time with the horizontal depth. I had a few spots where the binding was proud of the side and I had to sand it back which means the binding is not uniform in that spot. I'll spend more time dry-fitting it next time to see if I can get it flush before gluing.

The arm is well designed and smooth. John does such a great job with his fixtures and cnc products. I've built my own jigs and forms and seem to always replace them later. This was an excellent addition to my shop and build process.

Worth mentioning that after 9 builds, my bearing router bit was shot and needed replacing. Make sure you have a sharp bit or it can/will tear out chunks of wood.

Looking good!