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as you know I got one a while back. I am mastering the programing. I will pass on some info.
I have the next wave automation shark HD5.
what I liked
the software is complete and lots of tutorials.
Here is what you need that the don't tell you
spoil board ( mdf makes this easy )
Dust boot
the one they sell is junk found better ones on aliexpress
Dust collector
They use a ER11 collet
this limits your bit selection

You can get an 80 mm RF spinel for less 3 kw with ER 20 will give you more bit options

Water cooled spindle I use 3 1/2 gal distilled water 2 gt antifreeze

the t slots for this I found the economy ones with 1/4 20 thread is good

you need a spoil board bit

rockler support was ok but again there was too much left out of the equation . I also had to get the main controller replaced after less than a week.

In the end it is working and here is some of the end result I got the DFX files and learned to load and convert them. In the end I feel I got value for the investment.

if that is the one your halo templates are from, then its certified awesome. Looks like them.

You['ll have fun!

I see that some variety of Vectric VCarve comes with it. Do you know what the controller software is? (The software that takes the GCode output from VCarve and sends the appropriate pulses to the stepper motors to carry out the GCOde insructions. ) Mach4, perhaps?

I have a very early CNC that started out life as a SmartShark. Somebody gave ti to a friend of mine because it wasn't working. My friend replaced the control boards, got it working, wanted something better, and gave it to me on more or less permanent loan. It's still a bit flakey on occasion but it mostly works.

With small cutters (1/32" to 1/8") and slow feeds and speeds, it is possible to cut brass and aluminum. It take log time, but if you get curious you may want to try it. Clamp well!! The forces when cutting metal are much higher than with wood or plastic.

it came with vectric Vcarve pro 10 that makes crv to tap files I did learn to do DFX to tap
aspire is on the way
I am happy with the software package

I got a little CNC machine last January, mostly for engraving on my duck calls, which I have been doing.
It is a light weight machine, but with the right bit and g code it can do a lot of stuff. I haven't had much time to play with it, also has a laser.
I am hoping to use it to rout out a pocket for my headstock inlay on my next guitar.

I could also carve a bridge, probably do fret slots, fretboard inlays, etc, but the creating of the g code files takes some learnin!!! :)

Kevin

John,
When I toured Martin last year I saw they had two small ShopBot CNCs in the custom area running Aspire that they were using for inlays.

I'll be interested in seeing what you can do with the V-Carve inlay technique that Paul Zank invented. This is one of Paul's first pieces using the technique.

still learning the programming. As a pearl cutter I want to do as much by hand as that to me is more art
the machine cut inlays are beautiful but they don't have that hand cut quality.

Translation
I didn't learn to program that yet
LOL

CNC inlay can look as good as any hand cut inlay. Just build in your drawing a few "rough" spots and it will look like it is hand carved!

Sylvan- Now there's a switch. Pretty easy to tell if the inlay on an instrument is CNC, so if it's too good I just move on to something more interesting. I'm just one of those dying out handmade junkies. Now you're saying that not so perfect inlay could be CNC too. I hope no one is doing that to simulate handmade. Hope you're doing well.-Bob

I hope no one is doing that to simulate handmade.

When I toured Santa Cruz Guitars a few years ago I asked Richard Hoover about the inlays. They tried designing and cutting them on the CNC. But since they were perfectly symetrical they felt too mechanical. So they cut some by hand and then scanned them to be used as the templates for the CNC cutting the inlay pieces and slots. That gave them the organic feel of hand-cut inlays with the speed and repeatability of machines.