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I decided that I had to improve my primitive neck carving holder that I had used the last umpteen years. This is what I came up with. Can be made in a hour or so. It is sized for ukes, but I'll make a longer one for guitars.There is a length of T-Track along the top of the jig, so the hold downs can be moved for any size of uke neck. The center strip is just slightly narrower than the fretboard, so you can access the whole neck. I have a couple of wedges with the right taper for my different angled headstocks that slip under the headstock for clamping.Very easy to make. Only necessary parts are some scrap wood, a length of T-Track and a couple of hold downs. The hold downs are Power Tec from Amazon. They are a little pricey at $10.00 each, but I use them on several T-Track jigs and they are very nice. You could design the foot to fit any kind of clamping device you have. The Wilton 303 hydraulic ball vise I use is nice to have, but SHOCKINGLY expensive. I was extremely lucky to have been gifted one awhile ago. It’s a rock steady metal workers hydraulic ball vise. However woodworker’s versions of ball vises can be had at almost reasonable prices. They make it possible to to access every part of what you are carving without having to stand on your head. —Bob

Very nice!

Looks good.

I need to make a version of this before my next neck carving extravaganza.

Great looking rig, think I need to make one. Looks like your shop helper is on a break or more likely manning his work spot.

River is always at the ready, just in case I leave a nice piece of wood available for him to chew on!

Bob

Nice idea with the track and hold downs. Is there something under the head of the neck to support it with the clamp in action?

Ed

There is a removable wedge cut to the headstock angle that I place under the head before clamping. If you look closely, there is one under the headstock in the photo.I was going to make something more permanent, but I realized that a removable one would be more practical so that I can easily do 14 or 8 degree head angles. I tried double stick taping the wedge down, but turns out just inserting it loose was no problem. It is rock solid once clamped.

What a wonderful idea! And me with a neck to carve....

One 'feature' I want to understand more about: What protects the fretboard? Considering the forces holding the neck, is this even a concern?

Thanks!

Peter, In my case, the frets are in before I do the carving, but I don't think the forces involved would damage the wood fretboard anyway. They are not that great. The neck stays very steady without the need for excessive clamping.The T-Track is sunk about 1/8" below the surface of the wood, so it's wood on wood, not metal on wood. I guess , if you are really concerned, it would be easy to slip some artboard, or leather, or other thin material under the fretboard. I've not had any issues.

This is right up my alley. Thanks for posting.

The ancient red steel vice that came with the house gets the job done but yes, very inhumane back angles necessary to carve a neck. I should buy a ball vice before I spend that $ on a chiropractor.

Let's take a moment to gaze at the shop made thickness sander behind the fixture.

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