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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2019 9:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2019 10:51 am
Posts: 145
Location: Fishers, IN
Over the weekend I sharpened my chisels for the first time in a loooong time. My technique has always been freehand on a grinder and then water stone - grey grinding wheel and I think a 600 or 800 grit stone (brown) - and I've always been able to get things pretty darn sharp, or they seem so to me. Now, I know I should use a cooler cutting wheel but was wondering what else I might be missing. There's a lot of interesting things out there, like diamond stones, ceramic stones, custom guides, sharpening systems, etc. What do others use and like? I mean, there must be at least one amazing sharpening device that I can't live without!

Thanks,

C

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2019 6:08 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:14 pm
Posts: 1331
I use a procedure based on some ideas that were posted on the Lie-Nielsen website.
1. Use a honing guide to keep a consistent angle. Don't try to do it freehand. The one I use cost about $15. L-N's is gorgeous and costs about $100.
2. Use sandpaper on a flat surface to establish your bevel angle. #80 sandpaper cuts quickly and eliminates the need for power grinding.
3. Smooth it up with finer gdits, doan to #400. At this point I switch to stones, but you could keep going with finer grifs of abrasive paper.
4. After getting down to your finest stone (I use one I found in a used tool store originally intended for straight razors) , strop the edge on some leather.

Will it shave hair off your arm? If not, try again.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2019 8:22 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Posts: 2283
I use a honing guide, never freehand. I use the Alisam Sharpening Sled, which I found recommended by "Woodworkers Journal" a couple of years ago. You can find them on Ebay. They make 3 models, depending on how thick your sharpening stones are. I own the SS1, which is $70.

For the stones, I like the Spyderco ceramic stones. I start with the medium stone, which cuts quickly, then go to the fine, then ultra fine. I don't have to worry about them being untrue, and they clean up with Bar Keepers Friend cleaner.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F361617852028


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2019 8:24 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Posts: 2283
Here's the article on sharpening systems:

https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/chisel-and-plane-honing-guide-reviews/


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2019 12:05 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 7:09 pm
Posts: 6202
Location: Hegins, Pa
I use a tormek knock off from Grizzly and scary sharp system
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQEH-neQa9A
I agree the jig to hold the chisel at the proper angle is very important.

I have seen them used with a glass plate and sandpaper
water stones
oil stones
they are work just find your favorite

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Blues Creek Guitars Inc
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2019 12:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 29, 2015 9:04 pm
Posts: 265
Location: San Jose, CA, USA
I also use the Alisam Sharpening Sled. It is simple and effective.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2019 6:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
Posts: 1363
Location: Chestertown Maryland
Ask 10 woodworkers how they sharpen and you will get 11 answers. I have used Scary Sharp (tm) - always use the (tm) - for over 20 years, but recently got a couple of diamond stones that do a good job. I took a some classes by a windsor chair maker and he sharpened everything - drawknife, spokeshave, scorp, travisher, and plane with 150 grit paper glued to a flat stick - that was good enough for the work at hand. This taught me a lot about sharpening - don't go farther than you need to because that more extreme sharpness goes away in a hurry.

So my usual Scary Sharp (tm) schedule in 80, 120, 220, 400, starting where needed based on the condition of the edge. I use this for house carpentry and the boatbuilding I do. If I am doing anything that needs a better edge like joinery or guitars, I go farther 600, 1000, 1500, 2000. For the finer edge, I will finish with green compound on a piece of pine. Remember bevel and back are treated the same - sharp is the intersection of two polished surfaces. And touching up frequently on the finest plus the pine is easy and effective.

I don't use a guide anymore, but they are a good idea until you get used to the whole thing. I use 1/4 sheets of wet/dry paper wetted and stuck on some glass shelves from an old medicine chest that was replaced. You only need a few seconds on each grit.

I was given a medium, fine, and extra fine diamond stone - they are expensive - and then finish with 2000 SS(tm) and the strop. I think it is a little faster, but the end result is mostly the same. Everything works - it's just a matter of finding something you like and are willing to argue about.

Ed


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2019 7:17 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 7:09 pm
Posts: 6202
Location: Hegins, Pa
for me time is the enemy I have 10 or more chisels to sharpen and with the tormek knock off and my wet stones I can sharpen a chisel in a few minutes and get back at it.
If a chisel won't shave it is just a pretty piece of metal

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Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2019 7:24 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Posts: 2283
John, may I'm assuming you have a water cooled tool grinder. May I ask which one? I'm up to 7 chisels now, and I can see the need for a grinder.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2019 12:27 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 4:19 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Forest Ranch, CA
I've got a grizzly 10" (tormack knockoff). It's sitting in a large metal cookie sheet to keep the water splash off the workbench and make it easy to turn around to take advantage of the different wheel rotation directions. I then go to a sheet of plate glass (free at a local glass place) for scary sharp finish dressing.


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