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Morecowbell wrote:I know this is an old thread but came across it looking for fish glue info, so....

John - you mention the Franklin liquid hide glue being reformulated - any experience with the Titebond Liquid Hide Glue product?

I've used lots of Titebond wood glue in model and furniture making - great stuff and easy to use but I can understand why people look for alternatives in instrument building.

Thanks!

Clay

I use Titebond liquid hide glue on occasion, and I always keep it on hand. I quit using it on bridges though, when I had a couple of glue failures; I use HHG or Titebond I to attach bridges. I prefer HHG construction, but I've not had any issues with Titebond hide glue for general assembly (except bridges). I use it with a little water when I fret. If you use Titebond hide glue, increase your clamping time. I clamp overnight.

Admittedly a small sample, but I have glued on 2 bridges with Old Brown Glue, the first one in 2016, and they are both holding fine. From what I have read, this brand is a little different than Franklins or Titebond - it is just regular hhg with urea in it, like some ad to hhg to extend its open time a bit.

Ed

I would recommend old brown glue over the other cold hide glues .

Thought this was an interesting article on hide glue; "Hide Glue in the Modern Workshop", James Russel. Primarily from a furniture perspective but covers various strengths, how to modify open times, etc.:

https://emgw.org/resources/Documents/Me ... rkshop.pdf

There's also a Fine Woodworking article from 2007 that tested 6 types of glue including aliphatic resins, HHG and Old Brown Glue. The results are interesting to say the least. The article is stamped "not for copying or distribution" but is available on the Old Brown Glue website.

Morecowbell wrote:Thought this was an interesting article on hide glue; "Hide Glue in the Modern Workshop", James Russel. Primarily from a furniture perspective but covers various strengths, how to modify open times, etc.:

https://emgw.org/resources/Documents/Me ... rkshop.pdf

Nice article. Thanks for the link!

The problem with HHG is that it cools down so fast. I've been using a technique which has never failed me. Due to physical limitations, I can't move fast enough to clamp a back/top, or braces, before the HHG cools. I pretty much use HHG, exclusively, on all of my guitars now.
This is how I solved my problem:

I use an old hairdryer that I keep in the shop. Any hairdryer will do, but for your information, it's a 1200 watt dryer. After gluing and clamping a top/back, or putting the gobars on my braces, I put the hairdryer on "high" and "hot", and aim the stream of hot air at the joint that I've just glued. I hold the hairdryer close, about 1-2" from the joint, and I slowly move it along the joint, heating the wood and glue. I keep the dryer moving, but slowly.

I'm sure you could overheat the joint, denaturing the glue, but I've never had this happen. This has worked like a charm for me. I hope it helps someone else.

a heat lamp also work well