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I cobbled up my go bar deck this weekend. Nothing fancy. I used plywood scraps from work, and 1/2" threaded rod from the Big Box store. I doubled up the plywood after reading a few stories of other decks flexing a lot under pressure from many bars. I added a bit of perf board (?) after reading a cool blog by a guy who suggested it to keep the bars from shifting on the top deck. For bars I have been picking up fibreglass driveway markers for awhile. Every once in awhile I pick up a few when I'm at HD. The threaded rod was cut to 36" and I cut the markers long enough to pin down the back or soundboard with the rims sitting on a radius dish. Something I didn't expect was the need for two lengths of bar necessary because of the taper of the sides. I can thread the hardware down to clamp the bracing to my plates.

that should do the job

Looks good. I inherited my go-bar deck from a friend who moved on to a Life Beyond Lutherie (to carving birds) and as I worked on my two first builds I realized the top was bowing. I will need it for #3 soon, and plan to put some diagonal stringers across the top to stiffen it. I really like the idea of the pegboard; a while back I bought some fibreglas go-bars on sale from Timeless Instruments in Saskatoon, but they are rectangular in section. Maybe if I round off one end of them the pegboard will have some purchase.

I cobbled mine together from 4 pcs of wood that were on sale for $1.25, for each board, and scraps that we had laying around. I cut my rods from a set of Harbor freight 33' fiberglass electrical wire pulling rods, which cost $10. I had a carpet remnant, so I put that on the inside top, to keep the bars from slipping. I found rubber feet for the rods on eBay for a couple of bucks.

I may have $20 invested. Lol

Diane Kauffmds wrote:I cobbled mine together from 4 pcs of wood that were on sale for $1.25, for each board, and scraps that we had laying around. I cut my rods from a set of Harbor freight 33' fiberglass electrical wire pulling rods, which cost $10. I had a carpet remnant, so I put that on the inside top, to keep the bars from slipping. I found rubber feet for the rods on eBay for a couple of bucks.

I may have $20 invested. Lol

This is exactly why I need to take a stroll through Harbor Freight before committing to buying any more tools – because it may be both cheaper and faster to make my own tools from what I find there.

John- I've always used oak for the bars. Cut in rectangular profile they are very directional and cheap. How are the fiberglas rods that you sell on directional pressure? Being round, do they tend to change direction? Thanks, Bb

I used wood but I find wood is ok for a few times but I use mine a lot and found the fiberglass rods are very consistent in pressure.
here are a few techniques I use .
I can use it to flatten back cracks and repair and when spanning braces I like to use a bridge caul for more control