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Here is a recent tip from Stew-Mac. Look at about 2:00 to see Dan Erlewine use a set of neck patterns he made off of a vintage Martin - he made 3 but I have done them with just 2 - 1st fret and 9th fret, set the thickness at those two points, connect with a straight line, then draw a pencil line down the center and NEVER remove that pencil line:

http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Trade_Sec ... _neck.html

Anybody know how he made them? Here is what I think I will try - I have a perfect soft-V neck that was made on a CNC machine to copy.

Cut some small pieces of 1/4" plywood, then cut out a shape that is 1/8-3/16" bigger than the neck all around the curve. Put clear kitchen wrap over the neck, probably 2 layers. Mix a batch of Bondo (my Ace Hardware has small tubes) and smear it on the neck at the right places, neck is fretboard down. Press the plywood pieces into the Bondo and let it kick - just takes a couple of minutes. Sand it flat on both sides.

I have used one of the plastic-fingered molding shape catcher thingys, then transferring to storm window plexyglass, but this sounds more exact and quicker.

Ed

these templates have been around a long time. I have a set made by martin
I used heavy solder to copy a neck shape then made them out of lexan and formica
the martin template has the heel profiles , heel shape and neck shape at 1 and 10

I saw that video. Went as far as calling Bondo. Guy said use thick plastic sheet, cure generates heat so use as little as possible. I would put bondo on a close fitting template then apply the template to neck. I did the same as you and use a pin thing to profile neck then traced to paper.I still Need to trace to plywood and cut out. May use the bono trick. Thin Baltic birch used for drawer bottoms ( Rockler) is what I'm using. Didn't think about Ace hardware. Thanks.

I have used a LOT of bondo - used to buy it in gallons - on boats and cars, have used it on a lot of woodworking projects making fiberglass molds, and I have never noticed any significant heat problem. I have had a gallon of freshly mixed epoxy resin start on fire - a 3very expensive lesson. I would not hesitate to put it on an already finished neck in the small quantities required. I love the way it kicks on minutes, and the proportions are so forgiving.

Ed

My neck profile is going to be from my Gibson J-45 so the bondo thing was on my list. It didn't turn out stellar, I'll have to do one more molding session. Those low spots are grabber "kerfs" I cut to give some tooth, and the filer sank into them after placement so this is surprising. Stuff did get pretty stiff after about 3 minutes. On more application and a finish sand ought to do it Have one for center of 1st, 6th and 11th frets.

p.s. This might not have happened if I had the guitar resting on the top.

You can also use plumbers solder and make a copy that way. lots easier

An alternative to solder and bondo might be a profile gauge. This one looks fine enough to do necks and heels: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.a ... 2936,42958

they do a similar thing
with the solder you can keep them for each style of neck but I have used these for getting irregular shapes to mate

Danl8 wrote:An alternative to solder and bondo might be a profile gauge. This one looks fine enough to do necks and heels: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.a ... 2936,42958

I started off with a contour gauge and traced that to paper. Cut my paper template out of the birch . Did you guys mean plumbers putty (epoxy putty)? I have some epoxy putty somewhere but didn't even think of using that. Maybe I make a set from epoxy putty and compare the two.

I have used a profile gauge - I found one with plastic fingers so that it would't mar the neck. I am looking forward to trying the bondo trick because I feel it will take about as long and be a more accurate transfer with less fuss.

Ed