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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 1:16 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:39 pm
Posts: 110
Time to do the fretboards for my two "first builds". I didn't trust myself to lay it out, so bought a Stew Mac template, and made a mitre box/jig, using ideas from several sources (thanks to those who see their ideas here). The plastic was meant to provide a slippery slot for the saw, but it works fine just as a depth stop. The plastic bits are adjustable using the black knobs and T-bolts. Clamps hold the fingerboard down but I use a spring clamp as well when the fingerboard runs past one of the clamps. The thing sits on a couple of 4x4s to allow that clamp to work, and also put it at a better height. The Pony clamps keep it from sliding back when I pull on the saw. The tin can collects rosewood dust that I can use when dealing with . . . um . . . mistakes. It's not perfect and I may tweak it some but it works pretty well. I cut both fretboards and they seem fine but I guess I won't know until I string them up . . .


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 1:34 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:06 pm
Posts: 2926
Location: Visalia, CA
Pretty fancy, good for you. Should work just great.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 8:25 am 
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Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
Posts: 640
Location: Chestertown Maryland
Good idea on the adjustable plastic for a depth stop. When I mad mine, I just made the fence the right height, for all the parts I use, knowing that after a few boards I would need to do something else as the top edge of the fence would wear. Your solution has inspired me to add the plastic. Where did you get it?

Ed


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2017 12:07 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:39 pm
Posts: 110
The plastic is UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight I think) and is often referred to as cutting board plastic, so you could just buy a kitchen cutting board I guess. I bought this (Tivar 1000 brand from Quadrant Plastics) at Industrial Plastics here in Canada but I am sure there are plastics shops near you somewhere. I just bought a cutting, initially to use in a binding jig I posted here some time ago (yes, it's taking a long time to build these first guitars . . .)
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7688&p=42088&hilit=binding+jig#p42088

The stuff I have is 1/2" which may be thicker than necessary but it was on hand, and it works fine. I have not yet mastered machining the stuff, maybe need a variable speed router? If anyone has experience with this please share your thoughts.

A last thought - wood depth stops might work as well, and be easier to work, and could be freshened up if they showed any wear.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2017 1:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
Posts: 640
Location: Chestertown Maryland
"The stuff I have is 1/2" which may be thicker than necessary but it was on hand, and it works fine. I have not yet mastered machining the stuff, maybe need a variable speed router? If anyone has experience with this please share your thoughts."


I have cut it with woodworking tools no problem. Band saw works great, and a hand plane takes nice curly shavings. I will have to pick up a garage sale cutting board next time out.

Also, I screwed a foot long piece of 1X3 on the bottom of mine, with the 3" dimension sticking down. It fits in the vice on the face of my bench at a good height and very firmly.

Ed


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