Power buffer here I come

[tippie53]

once it is running see if you can stop the wheel. If not you can set something under the motor to take off some weight . Also run carpet from the stand so if you do throw a guitar it will fall on the carpet .
I have seen them tossed and destroyed on a buffer that is too strong. I think this is a video idea

[B. Howard]

Proper technique in regards to buffing path will keep the wheel from grabbing. Always buff off of an edge, then the wheel can't grab the edge. This means the edges at the sound hole too. Headstock sides get buffed lengthwise etc.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I have yet to buff a guitar on a wheel, however I've been buffing knife blades on a high speed buffer for 25 years, and yes I have had a blade grabbed and thrown to the ground.....there are a couple of chunks out of the floor under the buffer as proof
SCARY! I haven't lost one in a long time, the technique and position you place the item at the wheel is most important.

Kevin

[B Shuler2006]

I have the same Shop Fox buffer. How many bonnets or buffs do you use per side? I have seen some make them pretty wide!


Brandon Shuler
Shuler Guitars

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I have two per side. It works okay, but I think 3 would be better

[B Shuler2006]

I only have one on each end, and that's not nearly enough! 3 sounds about right! I also gotta get my finish right! I'm gonna follow John Hall's finishing schedule and see if that gets the results I want!

[tippie53]

I use one but not all wheels are the same. I get mine from an industrial supply. I don't like too may as long as you have about 3 in of buff that's plenty.
This is a buffer not a grinder. There is a knack and feel to get this right. never buff on an edge as Brian points out unless you want to do major repair. I use a 1/4 or 1/3 hp motor at 1725. No need to higher HP or rpm. It is about inch per min at the working zone. Too fast you can burn too slow you can glaze. It is all about the proper amount of compound and pressure.
I use mazzerna 16 and 18 also 3M finesse it and Maquires #9

[Kevin Sjostrand]

So far I have only done one guitar with this buffer. I did struggle some getting the right amount of compound. I am using Menerzas and the motor is a 1/2 hp at 1725. I have a step pulley so I can slow it down to about 700 rpm.

[MaineGeezer]

Buffing, or polishing, well takes a lot of practice. The Smith & Wesson gun company expects new polishers to spend up to 15 years practicing before they are masters at it. Buffing a guitar is not as difficult or demanding as polishing a pistol to a mirror finish prior to bluing, but realize that there is technique involved that one has to learn.

Already mentioned is polishing off edges. Aside from keeping the wheel from grabbing, it will keep the edges from getting rounded over. There is a lot more that I don't know. The book "Gunsmith Kinks" from http://www.brownells.com has an extensive section on polishing guns. If you have an interest in the finer points of buffing, it might be worth a read.

[B. Howard]

Breaking in the buffs is important too. They will not load with compound properly or give a good finish quality until they are broken in. I usually use a chunk of 2x4 about 16" long to break in my new buffs and basically buff it with the buffs dry for a while. I buff the 2x4 then rake the buff and trim the straggling strands and repeat. This opens up the surface so it will take the compound. After a bit I will start to add some compound while still buffing the 2x4 and raking etc. Takes about an hour maybe. Even after that the buffs will continue to break in a bit over the first 3 or 4 instruments until they start to work easily.

As to number of buffs on the arbor, I run two 1-1/2" wide airways most of the time. To get into cutaways, tight waists etc I will go down to a single.