Grizzly 14" bandsaw

[Tim R]

*Perhaps you'd get better advice if you share what it is you expect to do with the bandsaw. *

Okay, guitar part cutting that comes to mind, roughly from least to most demanding on the saw, but also from most the least likely for me to do, are:

1) cut already thicknessed wood such as top, back, or headplate wood.
2) shape a bridge blank
3) rough shape a neck
4) resaw & shape a fretboard blank
5) resaw a wood rosette blank
6) resaw side wood
7) resaw back wood

In other words, the same sorts of things the rest of you would like to do I guess.

Tim

[ColestineGuitar]

Tim's list is excellent. A list of things you might like to use the saw for is probably the best tool for deciding whether a saw will be adequate. I can only provide limited input, but it may be of interest.

I don't have a bandsaw yet. My guitar building takes place at my brother's shop, which is equipped with a drool-inducing Laguna bandsaw. Whatever the job, the Laguna does it well. HOWEVER, when the big blade is in the saw (used to resaw wood for backs, sides, tops) we always wish that we had a small blade in it (for cutting detailed things), and visa versa. I often wish we had both a small and a large bandsaw in the shop. Maybe the idea of having two bandsaws is ridiculous? My point is that you might not have to feel like the saw you buy now is the only one you'll ever need.

I hope this does not muddy the waters or cause too much eye rolling.

[tippie53]

One thing about not just the band saw but any good tool , be sure you understand how to set it up. Learning how to adjust the blade and the tracking is crucial , Also that it is square and adjusting guides. Like all tools ,it is only as good as the set up.

[Ben-Had]

Tim,

Have you attempted any re-sawing with it? If so what kinds of woods, and how wide were the boards?

If that question is directed at me the answer is not yet. I don't have a resaw fence or a riser block yet. I buy my sets cut. But It is on the horizon for me.

[Dan Bombliss]

I didn't read through all of these posts, but I own the G0555. Just got it last summer for 499 shipped, they raised it 100 buck since.

I'm more than happy with it, and the saw is alot more user friendly than the deltas I've used. Might not hold up as well or as long, but the great thing is grizzly has a printable PDF for every single part available down to replacing any screw on the thing. Meaning if it breaks, it's fixable.

If you get it, order it with a Timberwolf blade. You're going to be extremely disapointed with what's on it, and the Timberwolf makes all the difference.

This saw is very nice for the cash. For the 425 it was advertised for when I bought it, it was in comparison ranks with the Harbor freight 14" for 399 and the home depot Rigid bandsaw for 399. Both are junk, and for a difference of maybe 50 bucks, I got a very real saw.

I'd recommend it, definitely. Can invest in a riserblock for it for 70 bucks down the road if you'd like. They also offer the resaw fence which is great.

-Dan

[Tim R]

I bought the G0555 and it is set-up and running. It has worked well so far on some scrap practice wood even with the stock blade, including curve cutting on a 2” thick (several pieces stacked and glued) piece of plywood. It runs pretty quietly with no vibration and apparently no blade drift. I’m happy with the decision.

I will upgrade the blade. I have not bought the riser kit yet and I don’t anticipate resawing wide boards in the near future. For other general purpose cutting, what blade width and tooth configuration do you guys recommend?

Thanks,
Tim

[Dan Bombliss]

I was looking at what I would ideally like to cut, I don't remember the exact dimensions, but I got a 4 tooth POS I believe, in a 1/4". With the 1/4" it enables me to cut tight radius', and with the 4tooth it cuts realtively thick stuff, recommended for 2-6" or something like that.

The timberwolf blades are only like 5 bucks more or something like that then the grizzly ones, and I promise you it will make a difference. I was really disapointed with the stock blade that came in it, it cut, but very slowly. It also had a tendency to burn thicker wood on curves, like it didn't cut as well. But the timberwolf blade is still kicking, and cuts very smooth.

I've used a number of deltas and what not, and changed the blades and I can say as far as the setup goes, the grizzly is far more friendly. On adjusting the guide bearings, the delta is just a locking screw that you loosen then there's a channel that the bearings can move losely side to side in, which is alot harder to fine tune the gap, where as how the grizzly has the bears set on a cam, so when you adjust those screws it's much easier to get it dialed in. Hard to explain, but when setting up the 800 dollar deltas in comparison to putting a blade on the grizzlys, it's very nice. Not to mention the quick release tension lever. Where as how the deltas I've used you have to loosen the tension by hand with the screw and set it back again. The grizzly saves time and effort.

Don't know that it will last as long, but for my use it was a perfect investment.

-Dan

[Tim R]

Sorry Dan but can you explain what POS is? My fledgling knowledge of blades is limited to length, width, tpi, and tooth type (rake, skip, and hook). -Tim

[Dan Bombliss]

It's a term for the Timberwolf blades, and probably others as well. It's "Positive Claw" the blade I have is something like 1/4"x .035"(or so)x 4 TPI Pos Claw. The POS claw is the style.

Quote from grizzly site on Timberwolf blade:

"High Performance (HP) and Raker (RK) blades are specifically designed for detail work in 1" and smaller kiln dried wood when a very clean finish is required. They are also effective in plywood and other woods where tear-out is a concern as well as the cutting of soft metals.

Positive Claw (PC) blades are everything a wood cutting blade was meant to be. They have over 60% of the speed capabilities of a hook style blade with "hook" style gullet geometry and fast chip removal, while giving you the great finish of a skip."

For what I wanted to cut, I found that 4 TPI was the range for what I averaged my material thickness to be, and POS was the style blade that was most appealing. For cutting electric bodies to cutting brace stock, to making molds of plywood, this blade has cut smooth.

Look into charts for how many TPI recommended for how thick of wood, and see what you figure you'll use most.

Besides, the blades are relatively cheap, live and learn, and I'm sure you'll find a use for each one.

-Dan

[Tim R]

Dan and all,

I installed a Timberwolf 6 tpi, 1/4" blade and its a definite improvement. When I first ordered from pswoods, I specified a 93" blade, which splits the difference between the 92.5-93.5 blade size range listed in the grizzly manual. From a novice's perspective, it seemed a reasonable strategy.

Well, it didn't fit. Called pswoods and they said the grizzly ultimate used to require a 92.5" blade but that the newer ones require a 93.5" blade! Lesson: call the blade manufacturer before ordering.

pswoods sent me a new one free of charge and did not ask for the other one back. Impressive customer service. Seemed worth a shout-out.

Tim