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 Post subject: Re: Binding Router Bits
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 12:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 6:44 pm
Posts: 1668
Location: Arkansas
Here is the unit I built (that I'm considering replacing <smile>)

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 Post subject: Re: Binding Router Bits
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 12:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 6:44 pm
Posts: 1668
Location: Arkansas
Possibly the width of the UHMW on either side of the bit created the depth issues, not sure. I hate to abandon it, but hate to spend a lot of time trying to figure it out as well.

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 Post subject: Re: Binding Router Bits
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 12:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2011 2:51 pm
Posts: 506
Location: Bothell, WA USA
Darryl Young wrote:
BTW, you can use tape around the perimeter of the side to fine tune the depth of cut per chance you don't have the exact matching bearing for your binding/purfling cut.


I did this on my last Dread. I had to run a two high stack of blue masking tape around the body where the bearing rides to get the depth I wanted. It's a fairly easy, if somewhat imprecise way do deal with those in-between-the-bearing-size routes.

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 Post subject: Re: Binding Router Bits
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:35 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2011 9:01 am
Posts: 11
I hate to admit it, but I jumped into the forum because I felt a little embarrassed asking John Hall so many questions. I told him I should put him on retainer. He is such a good guy and his answers are always so knowlwdgeable. Anyway, enough of that. In the final analysis, it seems to me that the Fleishman jig with John's hardware package for the jig and LMI's long shank router bit and bearings is the way I will go. I need to look further into the copper tape that John suggests for additional tweeking of the bearing. Thanks,
Steve


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 Post subject: Re: Binding Router Bits
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2011 2:51 pm
Posts: 506
Location: Bothell, WA USA
The good thing about using the forum to ask your questions, is that others will be able to read it and benefit from it.

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 Post subject: Re: Binding Router Bits
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 5:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2011 5:37 pm
Posts: 7
Here's mine. Worked well, cost almost nothing, takes no space, and it's really hard to route too deep. But it does require you to develop some touch. The back took awhile to route, I was a little paranoid. Routed the top in about 5 minutes. Caveat is that if the sides are a little lumpy, it gets transferred to the channel. Don't ask how I know that...

Grr...link not working....

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16476247@N06/6327439809/


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 Post subject: Re: Binding Router Bits
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 7:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2011 9:01 am
Posts: 11
So tjp, couple questions. With your binding jig, it appears that you run the edge of the guitar through the jig, right? Also, in your images, the two braces in the lower bout are deeply scalloped in the middle. Is this guitar going to be an HD28? Nice set up BTW on the binding bands and top bracing.
Steve


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 Post subject: Re: Binding Router Bits
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 7:28 pm 
Darryl's jig looks a little bit like the Ken Cierp jig, but is not enough like it to do the same job, I don't think. I dunno, but I've used Ken's on seven guitars now with no problems so there must be some differences.
Kudos for the effort, though.


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 Post subject: Re: Binding Router Bits
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 7:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:14 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Creedmoor, NC
deadedith wrote:
Darryl's jig looks a little bit like the Ken Cierp jig, but is not enough like it to do the same job, I don't think. I dunno, but I've used Ken's on seven guitars now with no problems so there must be some differences.
Kudos for the effort, though.

Mine is a modified Ken C hand-held that wasn't too steady when held in my hand:) I've just finished cutting the channels on my latest and it worked great, just like I was hoping.

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 Post subject: Re: Binding Router Bits
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2011 5:37 pm
Posts: 7
Yes, I run the jig on the side of the guitar, or rather the guitar on the jig - it's the one flat reference point. About the bracing, I rebraced it after the scalloped photo was taken. Went with lighter, tapered braces and changed a few other things. All in all, I'm happy I did it.


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