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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2011 2:51 pm
Posts: 506
Location: Bothell, WA USA
Really looking for two things here.

I've really improved my edge tool sharpening skills (planes and chisels),as long as they have a square/flat edge. Curved stuff is another story. I use a slightly modified version of the burns sharpening system to true up bevel edges, and just use a 4000 grit takenoko stone for touch ups. I'm able to get stuff really sharp and keep it that way. Unfortunately, this system won't work for curved blades.


Q1. What is the best way to put a good edge on round edge tools, like gouges, compass plane, and spoke shave blades? I think a strop would probably suffice for a quick touchup, but I have a gouge and a spoke shave blade that needs a lot of work. How do you work a good bevel on a round blade?


On scrapers... I can manage to get a workable edge on a flat/square scraper using a mill file and burnisher, but my technique still needs some work. However, with curved edge scrapers, I am totally failing.

Q2. Anyone have any good tips for getting a nice hook on a curved/round edge scraper?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 11:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:06 pm
Posts: 3001
Location: Visalia, CA
I can sharpen knives, I am having great difficulty getting a good edge on a scraper, and my chisels need attention as we speak. Curved edges present their own problems. Use a round file, and sand papers, work the bevel on the inside, and keep the outside flat, just like you would on a flat edge. See, easy!!!!

Kevin


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 12:38 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2010 12:05 am
Posts: 131
Location: Charlotte, North Carolina
I put rounded edge blades in a vice and sharpen with a hone like you would sharpen an axe. The best thing for me are the small diamond hones followed by a rouge charged leather strop I made out of the rough side of an old belt glued to a wooden paint stirrer. Remember there is a very sharp edge waiting to slice your fingers and hand open if you try this method (not that I would know anything about blood, Urgent Care and stiches and stuff...just call me Roy ;') )

For straight scrapers this video from Willian NG was a revelation to me:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/scraper-sharpening-w-william-ng/ I've also seen the same technique done by Brian Boggs. Take home message is too treat the scraper edge the same as a plane blade before you draw out the burr. Flat sides and a small consistent burr are critical.

For curved scrapers I use a flat stone for flattening the face around the part I plan to use and a round slip stone to dress the edge with the scraper in a vice. I normally paint the edge I will be using with a Sharpie and work on it till the black is gone. Then draw out a burr and turn it with the burnisher. You can go way too far with the burnishing and break off the burr if you aren't careful.

For big gouges I use a Tormek with the gouge jig against the stone followed by the leather honing wheel. For small carving gouges I use slipstones followed by the Flexicut slip strop and gold honing compound.

You have to "Hold yer mouth right" on this stuff to do it well. Keep practicing and you'll master it.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 1:59 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2011 2:51 pm
Posts: 506
Location: Bothell, WA USA
That William Ng video is great! Thanks for posting that.

It gives me the reassurance that I'm on the right path. I sharpen my straight edge scrapers pretty much the same way (I even have that same 4000 grit takenoko he uses). I just need to work on my technique a bit.

Unfortunately, he doesn't show how he sharpens a curved edge. I guess I can try to extrapolate...

I have some diamond paste and was thinking about making a strop out of MDF for my gouges. I have no idea how to go about this though.

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