Re: Best sand paper ... your opinions!
Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 11:27 pm
Bob,
Silicone carbide is typically made to be used wet or dry. It is often used for sanding finishes prior to rubbing or buffing out. I have never particularly liked it for sanding bare wood, but for super fine grit paper without stearates, this may be the only option. Silicone carbide is also good for metal. I have sheets of various grits stuck to a sheet of glass that I use for quickly sharpening my chisels! Aluminum oxide is sort of like the orangish garnet paper, but the aluminum oxide lasts longer. You can typically get this paper with or without stearates, the coarser grits available with or without stearates, but the super fine grits may only come with stearates. Aluminum oxide is my all around favorite for working with wood. The coarser grits (like Norton 3X) are great for prepping and the finer grits (Klingspor stearated) for finishing.
I suppose there are other types of coatings out there other than what I have mentioned, zirconium oxide that you mentioned being one. I'm only opining on what I am familiar with. Regardless of the coating used, I presume many of the name brands perform equally well.
Cheap and easy to try a few papers out. Just make sure you get the selection of grits and work through all grits when prepping for finish. This ensures you remove all scratches from the wood. Generally speaking, it is also a good idea to stick with the same brand in your finer grits as the manufacturer designed the papers to work together to leave the least amount of scratching. I do jump from Norton to Klingspor at the 320 grit point, but would never consider jumping brands between say 600g and 800g.
Ken
Silicone carbide is typically made to be used wet or dry. It is often used for sanding finishes prior to rubbing or buffing out. I have never particularly liked it for sanding bare wood, but for super fine grit paper without stearates, this may be the only option. Silicone carbide is also good for metal. I have sheets of various grits stuck to a sheet of glass that I use for quickly sharpening my chisels! Aluminum oxide is sort of like the orangish garnet paper, but the aluminum oxide lasts longer. You can typically get this paper with or without stearates, the coarser grits available with or without stearates, but the super fine grits may only come with stearates. Aluminum oxide is my all around favorite for working with wood. The coarser grits (like Norton 3X) are great for prepping and the finer grits (Klingspor stearated) for finishing.
I suppose there are other types of coatings out there other than what I have mentioned, zirconium oxide that you mentioned being one. I'm only opining on what I am familiar with. Regardless of the coating used, I presume many of the name brands perform equally well.
Cheap and easy to try a few papers out. Just make sure you get the selection of grits and work through all grits when prepping for finish. This ensures you remove all scratches from the wood. Generally speaking, it is also a good idea to stick with the same brand in your finer grits as the manufacturer designed the papers to work together to leave the least amount of scratching. I do jump from Norton to Klingspor at the 320 grit point, but would never consider jumping brands between say 600g and 800g.
Ken