www.KitGuitarsForum.com

Mine is the same as David's.

Good tip on alining both ends of the go bar. It's much more likely to slip and fly if at an angle. Also, if not aligned well, there is a side force on the brace being glued so it has the potential to slide on the soundboard so it's no longer positioned properly. I love go bar decks!

I've built some workboards for most of my brace clamping efforts. I'm afraid my go-bar deck might be destined for the scrap heap.

I should have checked this thread several days ago! I experienced some slippage and had some damage done. Live and learn.

David L wrote:My gobar rods (rubber tipped fiberglass) are 24" long, my deck is built on threaded rods so that I can adjust the height so I can do brace glue-ups, adjust the deck and I'm good to close the box with the same rods.

David L

Plus 1 for the rubber tipped fiberglass rods. They each provide about eight lbs of force, they are easy to work with, gentle on the wood. You could probably make your own from rods from a sporting goods store, but I think this is the kind that John sells at Blues Creek Guitars.

johnnparchem wrote:

David L wrote:My gobar rods (rubber tipped fiberglass) are 24" long, my deck is built on threaded rods so that I can adjust the height so I can do brace glue-ups, adjust the deck and I'm good to close the box with the same rods.

David L

Plus 1 for the rubber tipped fiberglass rods. They each provide about eight lbs of force, they are easy to work with, gentle on the wood. You could probably make your own from rods from a sporting goods store, but I think this is the kind that John sells at Blues Creek Guitars.

That is correct, I got mine from John. I have 30 of them, enough to go all the way around the perimeter of the body when closing the box. I looked at the driveway markers at Blowes and Home Deblow and I felt that they were way too heavy for guitar building applications (bigger in diameter, too much pressure).

David L

I have used the go-bar to glue tops and backs on 4 guitars, but that is the exact reason I'm trying to get away from it.
I made and used a screw down caul like Johathan Kinkade uses (see his book), and it is a safe way to go, as long as you don't tighten the screws too much. I'll still use the gobar for gluing down braces.
and fiberglass rods are great.....check out Goodwind Kites online, great price for rods.

Kevin

I agree with David. The adjustable deck makes the most sense. Closing the box you need to add 5" or so to the space between top and bottom. Gluing braces you can keep it at 24". There is a place called Into The Wind in Boulder, CO that sells the rods and endcaps at a good price. I don't recommend cutting rods shorter than 24". Difficult to get them to bend otherwise. I wanted to try the curtain rod thing, but the rods were too expensive. David, what do you think about the 24" minimum idea?
Steve B

Steve, my rods are 24" long and I have had great success with them. I can't speak about whether shorter rods would be acceptable as I have never tried them. You know the old saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" unless you're the federal government then the saying goes "If it ain't broke, keep fixing it til it is".

David L

I also use the space between two shelves as a go-bar deck. It is about 25” tall. And, like others, I ripped a bunch of ¼” by ¾” slats from a pine board. After using them for gluing on the back and top braces, I cut them shorter (with slightly varying lengths) for gluing the top and back to the rim. For the second guitar I’ll have to rip a new set of longer slats, but then I’m done, outside of replacing the occasional broken slat. No need to adjust deck height, but I have to manage the different lengths, which is not really much of an issue. I have not experienced much problem with slippage, but I try to make sure the top and bottom contact points are vertical, as Jim H. recommends, eliminating any lateral forces. My 2 cents.

Tim

Here's my go bar set up.

I was able to scrounge a 1/4 inch piece of Lexan for the top, and as you can see I placed it over a light fixture under my cabinet.

There is a 4.5" spacer under my radius dish, so if I want to do a body this way, I have room.

Access is limited, but with all the light, viability is great