Got that Martin OOO kit...

[kencierp]

There's a lot more to it then just contouring the sound board -- bridge height, neck set etc. Plus 16 level and down Martins actually have a flat top. Bill Cory even points this out in his Martin book, here's some helpful info:

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/neckangle.html

[tippie53]

the top on the martin does have an angle (1 1/2 ) angle on the upper bout from the top of the soundhole to the neck block

[dgarrett]

I'm trying to get a couple of images into this darn post and it's all so confusing as how to do it.
I have no idea if this will work or not. It shouldn't be this complicated!

[dgarrett]

Been working on the Top/Back and rim to get a nice even fit. I cut the grooves for the ends of the braces and using a radiused sanding caul, sanded the rim to get a good fit. I've dry fitted using my Go-Bar deck, but not sure if this is how I should be clamping the top and back when acually gluing. I am in the process of making spool clamps. I got the price down to less than a dollar a clamp but will need quite a few, like about 25 or so.

The Pictures are of the top and back after sanding the sharp edges, and scalloping the top braces a little. I hope this will be sufficient, I didn't want to do too much. And Cory's book says to do a little tap tunig after the top is glued. Since I can't tell the difference between the sound of tapping wood or lead I probably won't be carving any more on it.

The other picture is of a little flaw that was on the top. It looks like a knot hole and is kinda dark. I tried to clean it out with an xacto knife but the dark part is way too much. And the dust filler I put in isn't noticable at all. Again, not sure how to proceed. Maybr I'll just put a sticker over it when I'm done.

38-TopKnotHole.JPG

[Ken Hundley]

Looks like a pitch pocket, not much you can do. Leaving it won't hurt, not at a stress point. You could try to splice a peice in, but I would just leave it.

[johnnparchem]

The top and back brace work looks great. I would leave the mark on the top alone. It is a natural part of the wood. I have found that it is way easier to make it worse than better. Also keep in mind that you will see the flaws 10X larger than anyone else.

[David L]

Nice clean work Dennis, keep posting those pictures!

David L

[dgarrett]

Got a question...I just glued the top onto the sides and am getting ready to do the back, but taking it slow. I just noticed I need to cut out the area around the dovetail on the body and I just can't seem to find anything in any manual or book as to how to proceed with that step. As simple as it seems, I want to know if there are any pit falls to be aware of here. I know this fit is important, any ideas?

Thanx, Dennis

[johnnparchem]

Got a question...I just glued the top onto the sides and am getting ready to do the back, but taking it slow. I just noticed I need to cut out the area around the dovetail on the body and I just can't seem to find anything in any manual or book as to how to proceed with that step. As simple as it seems, I want to know if there are any pit falls to be aware of here. I know this fit is important, any ideas?

Thanx, Dennis

I leave the dovetail area closed until after I have routed the binding channels. It allows me to route the entire binding ledge with my binding jig. After routing for the bindings it is easier to see where to cut to open up the dovetail. I used a razor saw to actually open up the channel.

[David L]

Dennis, no pictures of your glue-up of this very important process of closing the box? You didn't even mention which clamping method that you used, gobar deck, spool clamps, cam clamps, parking an old Volkswagon bus on top of it or what. Just giving you a little friendly "hard time" but I would like to know which direction you went for clamping because you talked about using either the gobar deck or spool clamps.

David L