Got that Martin OOO kit...

[Rick S]

Hey D, it sounds like you got yourself a project there.
Remember don't call it a "build".
Get Bill's Martin book, you will be glad you did for your first guitar.
Take your time, have fun, and show us pics along the way if you have time. Where in N. Cal are you? I'm in Visalia.

Kevin

Didn't know that you couldn't call it a "build". Good to know. I've got it right there in the title of my thread. Oops.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Rick,
The "Build" word became the subject of some levity.
You can call it anything you want, as long as you just do it.

Kevin

[tippie53]

one note to Bill's book , I don't cut through the sides when I set the top or back. This can cause a stress riser and may cause a side crack . Also hold the braces a small amount off the side so when the top and back shrink they won't push the binding off the guitar .
I do agree Bill's book is an investment and worth every penny .

[Rick S]

one note to Bill's book , I don't cut through the sides when I set the top or back. This can cause a stress riser and may cause a side crack . Also hold the braces a small amount off the side so when the top and back shrink they won't push the binding off the guitar .
I do agree Bill's book is an investment and worth every penny .

This is good to know. I'm almost to that point on my guitar and I've seen both methods and was wondering which method was better.

[kencierp]

I disagree with John's idea that the inletting the braces will cause some sort of stress or cracks or what ever, -- inletting through the sides is common practice through out the industry even on extremely high $$$ guitars. And on average a much cleaner job can be performed using the inlet method. Take care not to make the cut out to deep that the binding will not cover the ends. However, pocketing just the kerfing is fine as well but requires more precise brace trimming and care must be taken to prevent ugly chip outs -- a small well controlled router and bit is the tool of choice. Very sharp small chisels can be used also. It would not hurt to try both schemes to see which you like best. $.02

[kencierp]

Another note regarding inlet or cut through braces -- I'd say that on average it is easier to remove the top or back on a guitar that has inlet braces -- a bit less destructive.

[tippie53]

I have seen cracks from cutting trough the sides and binding being pushed off . I was trained not to do it that way and find it works well for me . If you do cut through the sides remember than you need to be aware of the ends of the braces so that it isn't over cut that the cut can be covered by the binding.

[dgarrett]

Thanx for all the input...I think I'll wait until after I cut the binding routes before I open up the dovetail slot, as advised. I'm enclosing a couple of pix of my top and back glue up. I did decide to go with the go-bar deck since I didn't have enough spool clamps, I'm still making them, they are pretty easy, and I get the hardware for less than $1 apiece, will have them available on the next build. I have a bunch of the plastic cards from motel room access (I never return them, too much data on them) and used them as the buffer to prevent denting the top and bottom surfaces. They also make great squeegies.

Got the box out of the mold and it looks and feels pretty good. Also much lighter than I expected. And really sound louds and sharp when I tap on it.

[David L]

Brian, it looks like you're really enjoying this, that's what it's all about. Keep posting pictures of your progress!

David L

[dgarrett]

Been a while since I posted. I lost my password and couldn't get logged in, the system just never let me in...someone musta had their head in their sound hole...I finally got the binding set up and scraped it's looking pretty good. I used Ivoroid for the binding, so I'm using the white plastic binding to bind the finger board. The FB was kinda narrow on the neck and now it's much closer and will require much less sanding. This should also help accomodate my 'Fat Finger" problem. I sorta got the neck to fit, but was having trouble getting the wings to flatten out, for some reason they keep getting rounded, no matter how or what I sand with. I do have a question though...
Can a dovetail joint be made into a bolt-on joint. There is a hole on the heel and also in the neck block.
What if I was to set a threaded bolt into that hole and bolt the neck on, would I run into any problems doing this? It just seems like it would be so much easer to getting a tight adjustable fit that can be mor easy to worked with. Let me know what you think or if anyone else has tried this.