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 Post subject: StewMac Dreadnaugh Notes
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:23 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 25, 2017 3:58 pm
Posts: 188
Location: St. Louis area
Notes about the StewMac instructions based on my kit build. I found some steps are better re-arranged. Also expect to use most of a 4x8 sheet MOL of 3/4" Baltic birch or a lot of soft spruce lumber for making jigs and fixtures throughout the build. My first 24x36" Piece provided a uber clean work surface.

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Last edited by Kbore on Wed Sep 06, 2017 9:11 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 8:52 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 25, 2017 3:58 pm
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Location: St. Louis area
The large X braces are pre- scalloped and they shouldn't be. You will not get a good tight fit when you use these pre-scalloped braces, the tight lock spot has been scalloped away. Buy a little spruce tone wood and cut your own, or complain to StewMac. You won't like them as supplied pre-scalloped.

Next, the tall tone bar closest to the neck end needs an access hole for the truss rod adjustment access. I provided a relief from the top of the bar, but a hole would have been better. Also this bar is cut on the short side so carefully glue it so it overhangs both sides the same amount ( it's still too short) . If you're not careful, it won't be sitting on the side wood on one side. I think the bar is too short, StewMac measured all the bars in their replacement stock, all the same short size.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2017 8:49 am 
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Location: St. Louis area
Don't cut the sides for neck pocket (as StewMac instructs) until after the bindings and purfling grooves are cut. If you do cut that wood away, you'll have an issue to solve when routing

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2017 9:17 am 
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Location: St. Louis area
I used StewMac's TrueChannel router fixture to cut my purfling channel. When using this jig CUT THE BINDING CHANNEL FIRST, DO NOT CUT THE PURFLING FIRST. Because you're bearing surface of the jig is shaped like a cone, and you have just routed away the top it sits on the channel you just cut. Bearring edge( white plastic cone) will no longer reach the top; it cannot ride on the top to set the cutting depth reference- because you just routered it off.
Attachment:
IMG_3845.JPG
All of StewMac instructions say route top purfling channel first. When I called tech services, they said, yea we know and have submitted multiple change requests to add that nuance to the instructions. They mailed me a new plastic cone guide so I can mill off the conic, increasing the reach of the top bearing edge.


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Measure Twice,

Karl B


Last edited by Kbore on Wed Sep 13, 2017 10:50 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2017 10:55 am 
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Location: Seattle
THank you for sharing. Interesting, I always did the binding channel first but have considered doing the purfling first. I never thought of the problem you show. I think I finally decided on binding first with the idea that I was making the deepest cut into the wood in multiple passes, also when I started I had a bearing set that advertised an extension on the shaft for the bearing so that the bearing was lower than the binding cut when cutting for the purfling.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2017 12:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:50 am
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Location: Chadds Ford, PA
Thank you, Kbore! Never considered that potential problem. I have the Blues Creek version and up til now have had no clue to even check.


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