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I bought a beautiful short scale 00 (adi/RW) kit from John in May of 2013, along with several hundreds dollars worth of clamps, files, chisels and other assorted tools from StewMac around the same time. My intentions were to build my 2nd guitar from this kit, but fate had other plans. So now we fast forward to today, I'm retired and getting a little bit anxious to get this box started. Some real basic questions:
1) Is all the bracing pre-radiused? Originally I hoped to have some radius discs to use for the glue up, but that hasn't happened, so I'm wondering, is the radius is already in the brace and can I glue/clamp them flat and have the brace establish the required radius after they set?
2) What are the top and back radiuses? 15' & 28' seem right, but I don't recall from almost 3 years ago...
I have more time than money now and I realize there are way to complete this guitar with maybe more "old time" techniques (read, hand tools and scrapers versus routers and power tools). Any tips or pointers to reference instructions is also appreciated.
Thanks in advance!

Paul

on the top the only braces that have a radius are the X braces.
I use 28 on the top but the top is not entirely radiused check out this video. On you tube at blues creek guitars type in kit and you will see a collection of videos specially done just for kits.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrgRKKsxL-M
if you have any questions just type away we are here to help

Pope858 wrote:I bought a beautiful short scale 00 (adi/RW) kit from John in May of 2013, along with several hundreds dollars worth of clamps, files, chisels and other assorted tools from StewMac around the same time. My intentions were to build my 2nd guitar from this kit, but fate had other plans. So now we fast forward to today, I'm retired and getting a little bit anxious to get this box started. Some real basic questions:
1) Is all the bracing pre-radiused? Originally I hoped to have some radius discs to use for the glue up, but that hasn't happened, so I'm wondering, is the radius is already in the brace and can I glue/clamp them flat and have the brace establish the required radius after they set?
2) What are the top and back radiuses? 15' & 28' seem right, but I don't recall from almost 3 years ago...
I have more time than money now and I realize there are way to complete this guitar with maybe more "old time" techniques (read, hand tools and scrapers versus routers and power tools). Any tips or pointers to reference instructions is also appreciated.
Thanks in advance!Paul

Hi Paul,

Those "old time techniques" make fantastic guitars. IMHO, it may take more time, but the extra time is well spent. I've become pretty darned good with chisels and planes now, plus there is an added bonus. You go slower, allowing you to pay more attention to every detail.

Maybe that's one of the many, many reasons that really old guitars sound so good!

Paul

When I started I did not want to invest in buying or making dishes so I found this solution:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/ ... 562735639/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/ ... 913590767/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/ ... 776959267/

I made my 2 radius beams out of nice looking pieces of 2X4, and each has a flat side for future reference. 4 years and a total of 6 instruments later, they have remained flat on that side. One is 15 ft radius for backs, one is 28 ft for tops. Very easy to make on the band saw and touch up with a flexible sanding block before sticking on sandpaper. I put that big carriage bolt up through the back board and the 2 locking nuts allow for even sanding - just put equal pressure on each side while you spin the beam and adjust the 2 nuts up and down til everything gets hit evenly. Also, I shape the bottoms of the braces on the appropriate beam, and glue them on their plates against the beam. I also do not have a go bar deck but rather glue braces 1-2 at a time. I will continue to use this method as I see no problems with my result and you only use these things for a few minutes with each instrument.

Ed

Paul, I did the same as Ed, with the exception of making a cheap gobar deck.

I used 2 pieces of, 24" square, 3/4" thick plywood, and originally just 1" x2" wood for the corner legs. I went to Harbor Freight and bought 2 sets of the long, 33' fiberglass wire pullers, and cut them to the length that I needed (see link). I found rubber end caps on Ebay, to put on the cut ends.

Total cost was ~ $25-30.

In fact, if you don't mind dumpster diving, go to a construction site; you can usually find plywood that's been thrown out after being cut either laying around or in a dumpster. Just ask the people on the site. I'm going to refine the gobar with threaded rods and nuts in place of the wood legs so the top can be raised or lowered.

I've decided to close the top/bottom of the box, using a spring clamp method, which looks quicker and more idiot proof to me (perfect for this idiot).

I just bought a lot of 96, 4" spring tension clamps from Ebay. I paid $56 inc. shipping. for the lot (which was an enormous bargain, since the best price I could find was 2 for $4.22). I'm selling 1/2 of them (48) for $28 including USPS Priority shipping.

Here is the method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MG1MJ_ ... Q&index=11

Here are the wire pullers: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-16-inch- ... 65326.html

Diane

You are making me reconsider the go-bar deck. I bet you could put a nice end on each of the bars by a dip into the liquid tool handle stuff from the Ace hardware store down the street. Dip, let it dry, then repeat once more and it would be perfect.

Ed

Thanks for the tips, links and encouragement. I appreciate each of you providing info on what has worked for you. I am not a woodworker, have no power tools to speak of and admit I am envious of many peoples skills when it comes to building basic fixtures, molds cauls and clamps. I have built one guitar in an 18 week workshop, but all the tools/fixtures were provided. Ultimately, a go bar deck and radius discs would give me the same tools I used on my first guitar and would increase my comfort/confidence level. Thanks again!

Paul

If you live in the Frozen North, as I do, or in fact anywhere they sell these things, http://www.lowcostmarkers.com/product/d ... reflector/
they make pretty good bars for a go-bar deck, and they don't cost much.

ruby@magpage.com wrote:Diane

You are making me reconsider the go-bar deck. I bet you could put a nice end on each of the bars by a dip into the liquid tool handle stuff from the Ace hardware store down the street. Dip, let it dry, then repeat once more and it would be perfect.

Ed

That would be a good way of covering the ends Ed. However, I found out that it works better if I leave one end exposed. I've put carpeting on the upper part of the deck in an attempt to keep the little buggers from letting loose, like a hive of hornets. I had a rubber end cap split, so I put the unprotected end in the carpeting. It works better than ever. The exposed end digs into the carpet.

This thread is chock full of good ideas & info. Thanks Ed and Diane for the tips on radius sanding and wire pullers.