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did you check out my vid on the neck set and intial set up?
if your are getting a rise you may not have the fretboard plane correct . Did you prep the sides for the neck angle?

tippie53 wrote:did you check out my vid on the neck set and intial set up?
if your are getting a rise you may not have the fretboard plane correct . Did you prep the sides for the neck angle?

Well I did go through all the neck set and addendum videos and worked with them along the way if that is what you are referring to.

great
then if your extension is still rising let me ask you this
A your clamping in the neck joint over the block
B Is the extension also clamped?

if the answer is yes then shim the neck with tape or paper until the top of the neck tenon is just proud of the top so that you can work a piece of paper under the extension and clamp things again and see if you still have an ski nose.

some times if you are just a few thousandths under the top the clamp will drive the tenon into the block and that can force the extension up ever so slightly.

if you need to call me If you don't have my # it is on the website at blues creek guitars.
we are here to help

tippie53 wrote:great
then if your extension is still rising let me ask you this
A your clamping in the neck joint over the block
B Is the extension also clamped?

if the answer is yes then shim the neck with tape or paper until the top of the neck tenon is just proud of the top so that you can work a piece of paper under the extension and clamp things again and see if you still have an ski nose.

some times if you are just a few thousandths under the top the clamp will drive the tenon into the block and that can force the extension up ever so slightly.

if you need to call me If you don't have my # it is on the website at blues creek guitars.
we are here to help

OK I shimmed the tenon with 2 pieces of paper (on either side of tenon) and the fit is tighter. As you see illustrated in the pic there is now a gap (.020") under the tongue by the block that then tapers to no gap toward the end of the fretboard. There is not really a ski jump now due to the fact there is the gap under the other end.

What should I do to compensate or correct this? Thanks

I would ignore any of my advise and wait for John ...

If the neck angle is correct for the proper action at the saddle and there is a sky jump, you could taper the fret board extension from underneath so that it lays flat without the ski jump.

Before doing that: Is the joint loose if you remove the shims but clamp neck in tight enough to close the .020" gap?

johnnparchem wrote:I would ignore any of my advise and wait for John ...

If the neck angle is correct for the proper action at the saddle and there is a sky jump, you could taper the fret board extension from underneath so that it lays flat without the ski jump.

Before doing that: Is the joint loose if you remove the shims but clamp neck in tight enough to close the .020" gap?

With shims/paper removed and the neck clamped in, the joint is sort of tight but then there is a ski-jump (because the .020 gap is closed)

pryde wrote:

johnnparchem wrote:I would ignore any of my advise and wait for John ...

If the neck angle is correct for the proper action at the saddle and there is a sky jump, you could taper the fret board extension from underneath so that it lays flat without the ski jump.

Before doing that: Is the joint loose if you remove the shims but clamp neck in tight enough to close the .020" gap?

With shims/paper removed and the neck clamped in, the joint is sort of tight but then there is a ski-jump (because the .020 gap is closed)

As I mentioned above I would get an opinion from John Hall

If you have not already checked, with a straight edge make sure it is a ski jump. A fretted extension will curl toward the sound board as the frets are warping it. If it is a ski jump than I would do what I needed to do to close the gap and get the extension to lay flat. When you string it up the ski jump will get steeper. If my neck angle was correct I would either taper the fret board extension from underneath and\or sand the upper bout a bit.

Thanks johnparchem

I will wait to hear a response from John as well. I can only think it is the plane of the top underneath the tongue that is incorrect so I don't know how else it could be corrected without doing as you suggest.

As of now with the shims in and a .020 gap created per the photo, the neck angle is correct with no ski jump.

Add a tapered shim. It's standard procedure for Carter (http://www.submusicworks.com) and the way I built my guitar with his direction. See below. If you build a radius into the top, it's pretty much follows that you'll need a shim.

Thanks for the photo. I actually went the other route and tapered the tongue and it is getting there.

Are a couple of paper shims ok for the neck joint when gluing? Looks like I will need them but nothing any thicker than that so???