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 Post subject: Re: Building a mold?
PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 6:57 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Posts: 1309
I'm going to chime in. I made a mold, but it wasn't as accurate as it should have been. Unless you own, or can borrow a spindle sander, it's better to buy one.

I also owned a mold made by someone who claimed it was a 000. It was way off. John has the true Martin sizes.


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 Post subject: Re: Building a mold?
PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 7:45 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:50 am
Posts: 424
Location: Chadds Ford, PA
I will chime in, too. This falls in the category of 'you can build a car cheaper than buying one'. I built my last mold using 5-ply baltic birch and the latches on Martin/John Hall's version for the parlor twins I'm currently building. All things considered, I might have saved $5. A good experience, but I would rather skip pizza for a month and buy my next one from JH.


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 Post subject: Re: Building a mold?
PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 10:16 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Posts: 1309
Danl8 wrote:
I will chime in, too. This falls in the category of 'you can build a car cheaper than buying one'. I built my last mold using 5-ply baltic birch and the latches on Martin/John Hall's version for the parlor twins I'm currently building. All things considered, I might have saved $5. A good experience, but I would rather skip pizza for a month and buy my next one from JH.

I second that, having priced materials and lost time I need to spend on repairs and builds.


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 Post subject: Re: Building a mold?
PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 10:25 am 
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Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
Posts: 637
Location: Chestertown Maryland
I have to disagree. I have built 6 molds, and it takes perhaps 2 hours, using scrap plywood, scrap 2X4's, and drywall screws. John sent the cardboard mold with the kit, the router bit with bearing is perhaps $15 (lasts a long time), and the sander on the drill press was about $10 at Horror Fright. Following John's advice, once you have the sides in the mold, they don't come out until the top and back are on and you no longer need the mold, so I used long drywall screws to hold the left and right sides together. If you can't find scrap plywood (try nearby home constrcution site dumpsters), 2 pieces at 2X2 feet each from Home Cheapo or Blowes cost only a couple of bucks

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/8942017807/in/album-72157633913590767/

there are a series of shots here with text below

Ed


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 Post subject: Re: Building a mold?
PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 9:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 25, 2017 3:58 pm
Posts: 188
Location: St. Louis area
Thanks for that view point ( and the picture presentation which was excellent) Ed. I have a bunch of spool clamps for gluing top and bottom plates. It looks like those spoolies are no longer usable with a mold? Removing the sidse from the mold to use spool clamps would likely defeat the purpose of a mold? The StewMac internal cardboard frame is not so swift either. Also I found that after a radius top is affixed to the sides, a square can no longer be used to check the sides for square when gluing the bottom.

_________________
Measure Twice,

Karl B


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 Post subject: Re: Building a mold?
PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 8:05 am 
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Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
Posts: 637
Location: Chestertown Maryland
Here is a photo from Hesh Breakstone, who runs Ann Arbor Guitars with David Collins. He no longer uses the row of holes in his mold for spool clamps as he made a go- bar deck.

I used spool clamps without a mold for my first instrument, but found it easier to to just set up some clamps with long boards over the top of the body in the mold. I use a donut shaped caul to avoid bearing on the domed sections. I still haven't built a go-bar deck because I only build about 1 a year among other projects and it never seemed worth the effort when I have something that works so well:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/12937663634/in/album-72157641029319394/

I never bothered with a dish either, opting for a simple radiused beam.

Ed


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