PL29 Parlor

[Zen]

Just wondering if anyone has built the LMI parlor size Scott Antes PL29 kit ? There's very little info about it online as far as I can see and I was more than a little disappointed to find that the kit does not include an instruction booklet or any instructions. My first Kit was the Stewmac dreadnought and that came with both a video and a book of instruction--very handy for a beginner to be able to get a handle on measurements etc. LMi send theirs out with an instruction dvd of Pictures and Audio by Robbie o Brien, and while he is indeed building a steel string its not a parlor guitar and I dont find it helpful for the PL29. The plan supplied is not as informative either as the stewmac plan that came with their kit. I decided that the quickest way was to buy their template--more expense and wait for it to arrive. My intention was, and still is, to buy a different kit from all the well known suppliers and build one kit from each one and hopefully improve my skills as I move along as well as gain information on different woods styles etc etc. Any parlor kit builders able to throw some light on this particular style parlor guitar for me.

Any help would be appreciated

Rusty

[darren]

Rusty,
I have not built a 'kit' per se from LMI of that model but have used the plans to build two guitars. The body size is awfully close to a Martin Size 2 so that is what I'm calling it instead of a 'Parlor' which is typically smaller. If you got the 24.9" pre-carved neck in their kit make sure to locate the bridge and bracing for it instead of the 24.5" scale that is drawn up. I know Freeman (another member here) built at least one of these as well. I've used the 24.9" scale in a 12 fret and 13 fret body joint.

Here are the differences between the size 2 mold and the PL29 plan (not much to get excited about) The waist and lower bout is pushed down and out slightly:


Here is the top bracing and a final shot of the first i did in Maple/Sitka:

I found this one bellied a little too much for my liking, whether it was braced too light or a top that was too loose I don't have the experience to say. Notice that the long scale and 12 fret join means the bridge plate is fairly low (and long) on the X. I used a slightly longer bridge to be sure that it crossed the X.


Just this month I finished the second of this body size, I did an experimental (for me anyway) neck buttress system and scalloped instead of tapered the bracing. Here it is in Mahogany and Adirondack spruce:




This is a really fun body size. I think you'll enjoy it.

[Zen]

Really great pictures !! and Thanks so much for the reply--I thought I was alone there for a while.
I don't have much experience building kits--just the one Stew mac dreadnought so far but at least there was an instruction book with that one and I'm a little peeved that LMI does not include a similar booklet, as any help with measurements etc would save a beginner like myself so much time. There is a DVD enclosed in the kit of pictures of Robbie O Brien building a different guitar but not a parlor.
I do have a mold for the OO28VS Martin which is similar as well but just not exactly right for the kit I have .
Did you build exactly exactly in accordance with the PL29 Plan ? Just wondering what the support rods are in the 4th picture --thats new to me--but then most things are new to me until i get some more experience. Thanks again
Regards
Rusty

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Darren,
I LOVE that guitar! Did I ever tell you that?
It turned out so good.

Kevin

[Zen]

Thanks for that runningdog--its exactly what I am experiencing but its also good to know theres such great info on this forum as well. Now, regarding what LMI have to say about it, one the one hand there is some logic in what he says, but on the other hand it I also feel its a well though out marketing tactic and here's why I think that. I should stress that I'm a novice, but I did try hard to make some sense of the measurements on the plan and how the bracing pattern should work out etc but after an hour I made the decision--I need a template to figure out the bracing properly and while I'm ordering a template then I might as well order a mold as I'm not a skilled woodworker and never have been--musician for over 30 years playing gigs all over Europe. So, theres one good reason not to supply an instruction book when you have fools like me who make split second decisions to spend money they don't really have .... but you know how it is . lol

I am not going to let it spoil my experience and I'm looking forward to it actually, especially after seeing the pics posted earlier.
All the best
Rusty

[darren]

Did you build exactly exactly in accordance with the PL29 Plan ?

Rusty, the maple one was built very close to the plans but with .25" (that's a skosh over 6mm.. :) ) tapered bracing top and back. And the longer scale which was recommended to me by another builder. Antes is well known for 'over-bracing' his plans.

BTW, my first guitar was an LMI 'kit' (and an unserviced one at that, basically a box of wood) and would agree that the puchasing from LMI sure does provide 'the deepest' building experience, but you've got to read, re-read and ask lots of questions. I would not have succeeded in even the basic woodworking operations had it not been for this forum.

[Zen]

Just ran into my first obstacle on the LMI Parlor build. Not quite an obstacle but it needs clarification all the same as i realise how important it is from my last build on getting the end and heelblock angles set correctly to correspond with the top and sides. There's no info whatsoever on the plans - PL29- regarding this and I was wondering if anyone can help. On the plans theres just one reference that says : "OK to Make shorter by 16 mm this edge" and with an arrow pointing to the soundhole side of the neck block. Thats it.
And again on the end block it says: "Radius or Chamfer typ"

My question is : should there be an angle on the top/bottom of the blocks that corresponds with the dome--if there is one-- of the top and back.
I am just at the stage of gluing in the blocks to the sides. Its a pre serviced kit so I was expecting that the angles would already be already planed in but the blocks seem to be a uniform measurement with no angle at all.
Is this how its supposed to be ?

Thanks in advance
Rusty

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I haven't built a parlor but I have built with a LMI serviced kit. The neck and tail blocks do not come with a radius or angle on the ends. You have to put that on them. They will be over length too. You should be seeing a sticker on the neck block about taking into consideration the thickness of your top when fitting your neck if you have a mortise and tenon neck.
You will want to put an angle that will match up with the radius you are using for your top and back.
You can shorten them and put those angles in after the blocks are glued to the rims if you prefer, or you can pre cut them. I have done both, and for me it is easier to cut them to length and put the angles on them before gluing them to the rims.

Kevin

[Zen]

I haven't built a parlor but I have built with a LMI serviced kit. The neck and tail blocks do not come with a radius or angle on the ends. You have to put that on them. They will be over length too. You should be seeing a sticker on the neck block about taking into consideration the thickness of your top when fitting your neck if you have a mortise and tenon neck.
You will want to put an angle that will match up with the radius you are using for your top and back.
You can shorten them and put those angles in after the blocks are glued to the rims if you prefer, or you can pre cut them. I have done both, and for me it is easier to cut them to length and put the angles on them before gluing them to the rims.

Kevin

Thanks Kevin,
I would love to put the angles on the blocks now if I only knew what they should be. Thats why I cant understand why LMI can not send better information or indeed any information out with these kits . The plan supplied is not helpful so I dont think there should have to be any "guesswork" involved when building something that requires the precision required to make a great sounding instrument. I checked the neck block Kevin, and there's nothing on there but my kit is a bolt on neck so I don't know if that's why..
Thanks for the help regardless, and I will have to soldier on and try figure out what my radius is going to be on the top and back but thats another headache for another day.
Rusty

[darren]

Rusty,
when I make up my blocks I do 92 degrees for the tail block top and back angles, and 92 and 96 degrees for the top and back angles of the headblock, respectively. this just gets you in the ball park and everything is set to level out after the kerfing is on, with your radius dish/bar or what-have-you.