PL29 Parlor

[Zen]

Thanks John,, I wish I could say I was nearly there but its like one step forward and two steps backward. I keep ending up just not getting the amount of clearance I need over the bridge. The straight edge is kissing the final 1/16th and if I could get that then at least I would be going in the right direction. Its a little parlor and its a nightmare with my big hands trying to bolt the neck on and then off again --must be 20 times this morning or more. Cant get one hand down into the soundhole and i dont have specialised tools or right angle wrenches. I think I have it corrected by holding the straight edge on the fingerboard without actually bolting the neck on but then when i try with the bolts in place and tightened up its a different story and I'm back to square one.

Thanks for stew mac video-- ben-had- and i will check that now

Great having you guys keeping me sane at this time------AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAggggghhhh !!!!!!!!



k=just a little scream there ...nothing to worry about....yet !!

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Rusty, I just relieved the heel cheeks on my current neck last Saturday,
here is a pic, hope it helps.

Kevin

[johnnparchem]

with a straight edge just on the top, is the top flat from the heel edge to the sound hole? If there is a slight curve toward the heel than you will have a slight gap. I mention this as it is really easy to sand the ends more than the center,

[Zen]

Rusty, I just relieved the heel cheeks on my current neck last Saturday,
here is a pic, hope it helps.

Kevin

Thanks Kevin, If thats all you took off then I'm well and truly snookered. I'm beginning to see now that increments should mean just that !!

Mine looks similar but I took way more material off

Ok, heres where I am now, With the neck bolted back on and the Un-fretted fingerboard held on top, and a straight edge on top again, I am within a hair of the top of the bridge but not over it. Given that the frets will take it up a little more when I put them in what do you think ? Not enough ?? Its been a journey just getting this far and i don't want to go back if possible

[Zen]

with a straight edge just on the top, is the top flat from the heel edge to the sound hole? If there is a slight curve toward the heel than you will have a slight gap. I mention this as it is really easy to sand the ends more than the center,

Hi John ,
The top is flat to the sound hole and the fretboard sits nicely on it so there does not appear to be any curve
Its the top of the guitar you are asking about ? Yes it seems fine.

[Zen]

This is as close as it gets right now. Close but no cigar ?

[johnnparchem]

The way it is now you will have a probably usable but slightly to very low saddle on the treble side.

Here is where you may get different opinions. I would increase the angle a tiny bit to raise the straight edge to closer to the top of the bridge if not the top of the bridge. That will open a slight gap at the sound hole between the fret board and the top. If the gap was not real big I would glue down the fret board and accept the slight fall off. If the gap was larger you can glue in a wedge to close the gap.

I would do this as I have been trying to control the height of the strings at the saddle from the top, as it affects the ability to drive the sound board thus the sound.

Others would leave the fret board flat to the top as you have it and put in a thinner bridge. They would argue that Martin or some other big name manufacture has or had several sizes of bridges that they would use depending on the neck\top angle.

[Ben-Had]

For the most part I agree with John. In fact I like a slight drop off (although i prefer to put it on the frets). Depending on how it starts to fall out I may use a combination of getting the angle closer AND thinning the bridge. You have to understand the tolerances here to get the right combos. You want neither too thin a bridge nor too much gap under the extension.

[Zen]

The way it is now you will have a probably usable but slightly to very low saddle on the treble side.

Here is where you may get different opinions. I would increase the angle a tiny bit to raise the straight edge to closer to the top of the bridge if not the top of the bridge. That will open a slight gap at the sound hole between the fret board and the top. If the gap was not real big I would glue down the fret board and accept the slight fall off. If the gap was larger you can glue in a wedge to close the gap.

I would do this as I have been trying to control the height of the strings at the saddle from the top, as it affects the ability to drive the sound board thus the sound.

Others would leave the fret board flat to the top as you have it and put in a thinner bridge. They would argue that Martin or some other big name manufacture has or had several sizes of bridges that they would use depending on the neck\top angle.

I think I have that sorted now but it took some time. Thanks for all the advise here.

I had to enlarge the holes on the bolt on neck joint a little to get the body fitting level with the neck. Question is what do i fill them back in with? Theres a little space under the bolts now when i bolt on my neck and I assume it would be better to have tight holes for the bolts ?. I'm hoping I dont have to fill them in completely and re drill as that would be a pain. I cant see that the bolts would move back down as the fingerboard will be holding to the top but maybe someone here ever had to do this ?
Thanks again

[Zen]

Lots of people have had to enlarge the holes (in the neck block) to seat the neck and fingerboard; it's no problem. There's no reason for the neck to try to move up and down (as opposed to rotating). If the holes are ugly, use larger, prettier washers!

Great, thats a relief. No, the holes were only slightly enlarged and the washer should cover it no problem..

Is there ever a situation where glue is used on a bolt on neck or will the bolts always be sufficient to hold tight ? Its a parlour guitar with a small soundhole and I have problems getting my large mitts in there to tighten the bolts.

Thanks