M&T (bolt-on) Neck Angle

[tippie53]

You can try and sand this true but use a sanding block with paper attached for on the top and not on the neck. Often newbies get overzealous on sanding . You need to think PLANE and TRUE. so the fretboard comes on as flat and straight as possible. When dry fitting clamp and tighten the best you can for accuracy but remember the finish will change things so get is close and finalize it when the finish is cured and buffed.
You do want to get the gaps closed up and you really can't get accurate measurements when the joints are not glued.
One point also to help is when the guitar is finished you can true the fretboard and fret the neck after you do the final set so you can sand out any mild deviation.
The key to a great guitar is a good set up. The set up is key to the neck and fretwork in relation to the bridge. It is these details than make for the final result.

[tippie53]

you are welcome to call I Pm'ed a Number for you to call.
Thanks again
We are here to help

[RnB]

I Pm'ed a Number for you to call.

We are here to help

Thx for the call John...

I'm getting ready to glue the fretboard on today & forgot what type of glue I should. Titbeond is OK? IIRC. I thought you told me some time ago that White Glue is acceptable as well....The top is also getting glued-up. :>) shoulder permitting!

[Darryl Young]

RnB, I may be misunderstanding but you may not want to glue the fretboard till after you're done with the finish. Titebond is ok. I personally would use only a little bit of glue around the perimeter of the fretboard. If the guitar is subjected to very low humidity, the fretboard may contract differently than the soundboard which may put pressure trying to split the soundboard. I had rather the glue joint fail before it splits the soundboard. Ebony is worse than some other fretboard woods.

[Jim_H]

Darryl,

I think he's talking about gluing the fretboard to the neck.. not to the top...

yes? no?

[Darryl Young]

I see, sorry about that.

[tippie53]

Pretty much anything that sticks. I so use HHG and Fishglue for most now but tite bond will work LMI is also ok
jh

[RnB]

I got the neck/fretboard glued-up & that went OK. I glued the top on also. That was fairly easy w/ the go-bar deck. Getting the correct angle & alignment prior to gluing took a slight turn after I took the box out of the deck & both had dried enough. I bolted the neck on to see if the measurements were still constant. The alignment remained good, but the neck angle changed (about 5/32"). The straightedge is now sitting well below the top of the bridge & only have 3/16" of space showing instead of the previous 11/32". Looks like more sanding & fitting, but I'm not sure what part of the heel to go at..upper or lower? I'm thinking the to achieve more rise, the neck needs to be tilted back more...?

start working my way up towards the board!

[johnnparchem]

yup from the heel. small amounts as the change is multiplied by the time you get to the bridge.

[RnB]

Small amounts as the change is multiplied by the time you get to the bridge.

Moving along...JohnP: Your correct about the multiplying effect. It didn't take that much to achieve more 'rise'. After sanding & flossing the heel, I'm back up to the height that I was prior to gluing everything up (11/32").

The alignment is good, but there is one thing; I'm having a hard time closing up the smallest gap between the neck & body. I've relieved the area against the tenon so there's a no restriction, but I can't get it to seat tight against the body on 1 side. The other side is fine. Should I be concerned about it at this point or worry about it later on. I'd like to keep moving & rout the channels for some binding & drill hole for tuners

Also: I have some herringbone purfling I was thinking of using, but it's not shaped for a cutaway. Even If I wanted to use it, would it be long enough to fit around the cutaway if re-shaped?