First Build Bracing Question

[klooker]

I'm working on my first build - a Martin rosewood dreadnought.

As we know, the Martin instructions - or "helpful hints", are somewhat helpful.

I bought a Stewmac drawing to help fill in the gaps. Stewmac says to mortise the 2 tone bars into the cross brace. The Martin braces are already mitered to butt perfectly against the X-brace and follow the bracing pattern.

I have the tools and ability to mortise them into the brace but is this worth the effort?

The Stewmac drawing also shows scalloping patterns for the bracing. Should I scallop?

Thanks,
Kevin Looker

[Freeman]

I have always just butted the tone bars up against the X braces but others do inset them.

As far as scalloping, you might want to play a few different models of Martin D28's - there are several different bracing patterns in use today (and over the history of the guitar). That certainly will give you a feeling for what scalloping can do for yours.

The next part of scalloping is to decide how much (if any). You can either follow a pattern (your plans) or you can attempt to adjust or improve the response of your particular top plate (the whole idea of scalloping). That is an esoteric subject with as many theorys and methods as there are builders - Martin takes a fairly conservative approach and generically scallops to a pattern, many others try to make the scallop really do something for the tone of the plate.

Further, what is the role of the different braces and tone bars in the overall construction of the top? Some argue that the X braces are just that - braces, they are there to resist the deformation of the top under the torsion of the bridge - scalloping essentially weakens them and allows the top to flex more freely - probably only making the guitar louder. Some say the "tone bars" are just that too, there for adjusting the tone of the top. That is why they are angled (different effect on the bass side of the lower bout from the treble) and if you scallop them you can in theory modify the bass to treble reponse.

I'm not going to tell you to scallop or not, or if you do, how to do it. Certainly following the Martin plans will give you a conservative approach, but a reading of the literature (Siminoff's book on Tap Tuning, the recent American Lutherie article by Michael Cone, severl current threads at the MIMF.com website, and many other places will help (confuse the heck out you LOL).

However, I will add one anecdote - I have a 1974 Martin from the "overbuilt" era that was a nice but not really outstanding guitar. I had some aftermarket scalloping and a light bridgeplate installed a couple of years ago and it did completely change the old gal. It is much louder and incredibly more complex- that little operation did more to "open it up" than 30 year of playing.

My two cents, others will have other opinions

[JJDonohue]

What Freeman says is true. In light of the fact that this is your first guitar, I would encourage you to mimic the bracing scheme of a good plan or a guitar that you consider sounds good to your ear. You'll take copious notes and have an opportunity to build subsequent tops and compare. That's how real knowledge is gained. To scallop or not to scallop...that's often the question...so why not do both on different tops and compare. I started out scalloping on my first guitars and then tapered braces for awhile. Now, I have a hybrid of both scalloped and tapered. We all eventually forge our own path to a certain extent...but only after learning the consequences and nuances of voicing.

Just take your time and enjoy the journey for now because if you're like most builders, each time you think you've arrived at a destination, you'll want to do more exploring and begin a new journey. Learn to enjoy journeys...it's fun.

[kencierp]

I am of the same school of thought of as the great Don Teeter (repair person supreme) I believe in one of his publications he mentions that notching the X to receive the tone bars only serves to make repairing a loose brace more difficult -- an opinion of course. Anyway, with our KMG Success Kits the ends are slightly sloped at the intersection, this will give some illustration:
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/topassembly.html

[klooker]

Thanks for the replies.

I decided to just butt the tone bars against the X-braces & I'm going to scallop the braces. I've looked at scalloping shapes on the Martin & Taylor factory videos along with in the Martin literature. They all look pretty similar & they pretty much match the Stewmac drawing.

I'm going to attempt to discern tonal differences as I progress. I realize that I'm venturing into some murky waters but is there a typical order of which braces to scallop first? I started on the small ones (finger braces?) first because they're smallest & the least intimidating.

Here are some photos - these types of sites are always more interesting with photos.

Kevin Looker

[darren]

Looks like a clean build there - keep it up. Also nice striping in the rosewood!

[tippie53]

They used the mortise when the glue wasn't as good as it is now. I agree with all the above Nuttin wrong with butting them in