My First Build

[ngerty]

I can see how the dovetail gap could cause a problem when routing the binding channel. But knowing that it is something that could happen might help me prevent it from happening.

I chiseled out the end-wedge area and the pieces fit pretty well. I chiseled all the way down to the block and it is just a little too deep for the wedge so I'm going to have to raise it somehow. Maybe a layer of epoxy or something before gluing.

Here are some photos of what's been going on lately and of how things are looking.

[ngerty]

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[ngerty]

Another day of work...
I cut out the wood in front of the dovetail and glued all the kerfed lining on. It looks pretty nice. Gluing the lining has been the most difficult and stressful part of the build so far. It was tough to get the glue amount right and the alignment and clamping done well. However, the last piece I glued on (I only had 35 clothespins, and five other stronger clamps that I used. Because I had so few I had to break up the job into four different gluing sessions) - the last piece was the one you see through the sound hole and It came out really well (which made me very happy).

Tomorrow I'm going to brace the back and bevel the lining in the back. And maybe I'll get the back glued to rim. That'd be nice.

Should the top go on first though? With the top on first you could clean glue squeeze on and then do the same for the back through the sound hole... Does it matter the order?

Thanks,

-Neil

[klooker]

I think most people glue the top on first because it's easier since it's essentially flat - or flat compared to the back.

Kevin Looker

[naccoachbob]

I don't remember if I did the back first this time, but I think I did. If so, it was to clean up the glue squeeze-out that could be seen from the soundhole.
I guess that's how much attention I paid to it.

[kencierp]

I have always glued the soundboard first --- I am not one of those who claims to hear the wood talk or anything like that, but I do feel that anybody after a few builds is able to hear if the sound board is tight and lacks resonance -- Kinkead goes into to that a bit in his book. If you rap on the top you should detect if the sound has a bit of sustain and does not sound like knocking on the kitchen table -- kind of a thud. Its my belief that this quality some times is or is not revelaed until after the top is glued to the rim. Anyway, on some builds-- maybe its just my imagination -- I have been able to get the sound board to exhibit a more pleasing sound (to my ear) by shaving the braces -- I do the shaving between the scallop peaks. So to do this process I have to glue the back on last. I did develop a little glue application pattern that helps avoid some of the squeeze out and required clean-up -- that can be seen in this article:
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/gl ... rsion.html

[deadedith]

I've recently spend some time with a very experienced luthier who lets the wood "talk" to an elaborate electronic setup at various stages of the build. It's fascinating. I'm not saying we should do that - I wish I could - but one of his results is worth passing on in this respect - he has found that, once the top has been glued on, he can TAPE the back on and test the instrument and gets very nearly the same results from his equipment that he does when GLUING on the back!! What this means of course is that it gives us "wood whisperers" another way to tap for tone and make adjustments before gluing on the back. I'll be doing this on my next build.
Dave B