My First Build

General Information about Building Kit Guitars
klooker

Re: My First Build

Post by klooker »

Regarding the bowing of the top -

When I toured the Martin factory, I noticed that whenever they had an unbraced top laying around, they always had something stacked on it to keep it flat.

Kevin Looker
Dan Bombliss
Posts: 219
Joined: Wed Jan 30, 2008 11:36 pm

Re: My First Build

Post by Dan Bombliss »

I don't know how bad light is shining through your backstrip, but if you can't notice very easily, I would assumed that you'd be alright. Unless of course it's an eye sore.

Keep in mind you have to glue a reinforcement backstrip down, so that will make the joint fairly secure.

-Dan
ngerty

Re: My First Build

Post by ngerty »

That's interesting and nice to know. Thanks Kevin. I might try that out, only, I don't know if the pressure would crack the wood or the joint with the amount of warping that has incurred. The curl is most pronounced near the sound hole. I think I'll do that once I get the humidity down a bit.

The marquetry strip is not a bid deal, I don't think. Maybe I'll seal the tiny gaps with something. I'll see.

I was examining my sides in the jig. First, I realized the sides don't need any trimming (Maybe a little sanding to make the joints closer to perfect). I also noticed the sides aren't exactly the same size at the ends. It's worse in the upper bout than in the lower bout (just needs a little sanding in the lower bout I think). Here's a picture (Just so you know, there is no unevenness on the bottom side of the upper bout side joint):
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enalnitram

Re: My First Build

Post by enalnitram »

klooker wrote:Regarding the bowing of the top -

When I toured the Martin factory, I noticed that whenever they had an unbraced top laying around, they always had something stacked on it to keep it flat.

Kevin Looker
I don't think pressure necessarily needs to be applied. If you lay something like a top, uncovered, on a flat surface, moisture will enter on one side, potentially producing a potato chip effect. Just covering it should be enough.
ngerty

Re: My First Build

Post by ngerty »

Never mind the issue with the lower bout side unevenness. I noticed it was just the result of a sort of "hill" that is partly visible in the photo. Once I sanded that bit down the sides were even. A definite relief.

-Neil
ngerty

Re: My First Build

Post by ngerty »

So I've glued the end block and am now turning my sights towards the neck block. The neck block significantly taller than the sides (5/16").In Bill Cory's book he says the neck block should not be cut down, but it protrudes far above the top and bottom of the sides. Bill acknowledges that he is not a true professional in the book, but I trust his instruction. That's why I'm a little unsure of things. Is the block supposed to be this tall or supposed to be shorter (therefore not needing to be cut as Bill says)?

If the block is too tall, can I take of material on the bottom without creating problems?

Thanks,

-Neil
Dan Bombliss
Posts: 219
Joined: Wed Jan 30, 2008 11:36 pm

Re: My First Build

Post by Dan Bombliss »

If it's too tall really that's only going to create more work later. If it's too short it's going to create that much more work. Basically when you glue your kerfing on there, the step after that is to sand the radius into the kerfing and make everything perfect for the top/back to glue to with out any imperfections.

If your blocks too tall, it's going to take longer to sand lower. If your blocks too short, it will take even longer to sand everything else down to it. It has to be just taller than the sides so that the radius of your top/back can still be put into the block, if that makes sense.

The edge of the block glued to the sides will be slightly lower than the edge of the block away from the sides, because it tapers as a surface to glue your arched top or back too. I would think 1/16"-1/8" of an inch proud would be ideal, someone else can approve that.

-Dan
klooker

Re: My First Build

Post by klooker »

Align the top of the neck block with the top of the rim and let the bottom protrude below. The bottom will need to be contoured to match the contour of the back. It will be shortest next to the rim but get taller towards the middle of the guitar.

Have the rim top side down against your work board or a flat surface when you install the neck block. This will help in getting the block aligned to the sides.

Kevin Looker
ngerty

Re: My First Build

Post by ngerty »

Thanks for all the advice.

I cut the block to proper height and glued it to the rim. Now I have both blocks done and will glue in the lining once I cut the wood out in front of the dovetail and inlay the end piece. I also glued up the back and have chiseled and sanded off almost all of the glue excess marquetry strip wood and glue (although the glue squeeze out on the outside of the back seems to have just stained the wood to a degree. I sand it and get a bunch of rosewood dust, but the surface is still somewhat shiny and dark. It looks alright though, so I think I'll leave it the way it is). I also sanded down the fretboard with a sanding sponge and it is smooth and glue-stain free.

Now I'm preparing to brace the back. I think I'll glue the transverse braces first and then install the center strip. Can I cut out four radiused cauls and glue all four braces at the same time? I've read that you can only glue one brace at a time with cauls (as opposed to a radius dish), but if I make four of them and situate them underneath the brace positions, can't I clamp them all down with a go-bar deck and some clamps? Also, can I finally roughly cut out the back at this point?

Thanks,

-Neil
naccoachbob
Posts: 477
Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 9:25 am
Location: Nacogdoches, Tx

Re: My First Build

Post by naccoachbob »

I would not cut out the dovetail area. When you go to do the binding, you're probably going to slip into the recess left there.
I did that. It's a bear to cover up.
I don't know whether it matters or not about the end wedge. Personally I don't see a problem, but I waited until the back and top were on mine before doing that.
Someone with more experience can address that.
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