Sneak Peek at No. 2

[kencierp]

As compared to a Mahogany neck, the White Oak could be as much as 30% heavier --- sounds like a lot until you compared necks that are made of Maple (which are very common) those can be as much as 50% heavier!! Steve Klien, I think Siminoff, and others will say that is a very good thing since the extra weight reduces the "tuning fork effect" sucking of less energy from the top and body.

[johnnparchem]

Kevin, I do like the idea of reshaping the head, Not only does it usually come out quite nice, it also personalizes a guitar and also separates them from factory/production models. Now, having said all of that, this is not one of the skill sets that I'm ready or willing to move up to on this (only my second) guitar. I do plan to move in that direction one day, it just scares the h-e-double hockey sticks out of me.

David L

Looking at your work on your guitars and your boxes, you have the skills to reshape a head stock.

I draw out the shape I want on paper, make copies and glue one with white glue right on the headstock. Then I get a feel for what it will look like in context before I cut, and when I start to do the cutting/sanding/filing I am OK as long as I do not cross the line.

Although the neck does look good just the way it is.

[David L]

Thanks Ken for the info on the weight of the neck. I had never even thought of it until someone else asked the question and sparked my curiosity. I also am still holding true to the decision I made back when we discussed the shape of the head and how it pertained to whether I would be customizing it or not. I am going to leave that "step-up" for a future project (perhaps not too far in the future). I have been playing with the wood (don't even go there Tony) pieces parts that you sent with the neck and I'm coming up with some really cool ideas, haven't finalized anything yet. John, thanks for the compliment in your confidence of my abilities to shape a head. That's a good tip on how to do it and I will implement that when I'm ready to take it on.

David L

[David L]

Here are some options that I came up with. Try to imagine with B/W purfling and walnut binding.

David L

[David L]

Another option, same as option #1, except with a walnut border, would look better of course if cut out to size and everything flush, also the same B/W purfling and walnut binding.

David L

[David L]

Option #3, nothing fancy, just walnut, imagine the same purf and binding.

David L

[David L]

I like #1 and #3 best, think both would look better with mildly rounded cornerns at the top of the head, nothing drastic, basically to knock that sharp corner off. It would also make it easier to purf and bind. If I went with #1 I think I would not install a peg head inlay, however, if I went with #3 An inlay of an oak leaf made from some scrap white oak might look cool.

David L

[johnnparchem]

I like number 1. If I bound the peg head I would use a thin binding that also carried through to bind the fretboard. If I was not going to bind the fretboard I would just leave the peg head unbound.

just my opinion.

[David L]

I do intend to carry the same purfling/binding scheme throughout the entire guitar, head, fretboard, top, back, sides, end wedge, back strip, and rosette edges.

David L

[Kevin Sjostrand]

David,
I like #1 and it looks really cool. I do however tend to like the more subdued look, so I gravitate more to #3. I just love to see the color and grain of beautiful wood, and it will be awesome under the finish.

Kevin