Sneak Peek at No. 2

[deadedith]

Ain't never heard of such a thing - not cheating, I do that whenever I can - but the chisel. Tres cool.

[johnnparchem]

The reciprocating chisel looks cool. The cuts you made sure look clean. Do you still have to saw both sides of the slot and use the chisel to clean out the waste? How does it feel when using it? I am assuming it is a very high frequency, very short stroke action.

[David L]

Yes John, I chose to saw the sides of the notch first, someone who actually knows what they're doing with this thing would probably not have to pre-cut the sides. This is the first time I used it in a guitar application, due to the neat and orderly condition of my shop, I coudn't find one of my manual chisels and my power chisel was just sitting there as if to say "c'mon show some stones" so I grabbed it up and used it, My flex-shaft is always set up on the edge of the table saw as I use it frequently for many different applications. I use the rotary handpiece more than the chiseling one. I am reluctant to use it (chisel) on a guitar because like some other power tools, things can go bad, fast! It's a nice little tool but it takes some getting used to, the trick is to set the cutting edge on the work, push on it to engage the gears and then slowly start the chiseling by pushing on the variable speed control foot pedal, it works better at slower speeds, 3000 to 5000 rpm (motor speed). I took the handpiece apart because I wanted to see how it works and it is really quite simple, for every revolution of the flex-shaft the chisel goes in and out twice. The tool sems to cut better cross grain as opposed to with the grain oddly enough but you have to be careful (cross grain) as it will blow out the edge.

David L

[David L]

Scalloping complete on the X-braces. My question is, do you think that they are still too beefy? I know that's a loaded question as there are many variables but I'm asking anyway.

David L

[Darryl Young]

I wouldn't take things down further without haveing the braces glued onto the top where you either measure of get a feel for the stiffness.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

They look good, like Darryl said, get them glued on and see. The ends look a bit thick and should be taken down to about .100" for notching into the sides, but othewise they look great to me. How are you clamping them up? In a gobar deck, it might be more difficult with them preshaped and scalloped...less flat surface to place the rods on.

Kevin

[David L]

I am glueing with a gobar deck. I glued Fatso up the same way (pre shaped braces from kit) using the gobar deck and I had very few problems losing the rods, I think only about three (if I remember correctly) rods slipped for the entire top and back glue ups. (beginner's luck perhaps).

David L

[David L]

Ken, I really like the angled, herringbone, zipper, etc... idea, and then I would be able to do the purf thing around the head like I thought about earlier. I will play around with it some tonight, see what I can come up with, post a couple of pics... as far as the weight of the neck, my answer would be to ask Ken, I have only held two actual necks in my hands, Ken has held, I don't know, let's make a guess, hundreds? thousands? Get my point? Sorry to throw you under the bus like that Ken but that's as honest as I can do!

David L

[Kevin Sjostrand]

That is a fine looking neck. If your veneer is at least 3" wide, don't be afraid to reshape the headstock and make it fit if you really like it.
You have some great possibilities there.

Kevin

[David L]

Kevin, I do like the idea of reshaping the head, Not only does it usually come out quite nice, it also personalizes a guitar and also separates them from factory/production models. Now, having said all of that, this is not one of the skill sets that I'm ready or willing to move up to on this (only my second) guitar. I do plan to move in that direction one day, it just scares the h-e-double hockey sticks out of me.

David L