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I just got the trifecta of CA glue Thick, Thin, and gap filler.

I happen to live a 7000 feet.

I was going to use the thin glue tonight to glue up a rosette.

I set the tip on the bench and cut the tip off with a knife.

Imagine my surprise when POOF! it squirted a stream across the top! It was under pressure!! Probably packed at sea level...? "Shocked" is an appropriate emotion...

I wiped it up with a paper towel as fast as I could, but it dried fairly quickly.

The top is 2.5 mm thick. Being 'thin' CA I'm not sure how deep it soaked in.

I'm going to attempt to sand the CA off. Hopefully, it will.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Oh, if anyone has a similar experience and how to deal with it please chime in.

I never use CA on spruce
Duco is what I use for all my rosettes
You may get lucky wipe it with acetone that may help get it out of the wood
sad thing is you may see it when you finish so do a test spray before you use it if you don't see it
you are good to go
jh

Would it ever make sense to just finish sealing the whole top with CA in this scenario? I recall seeing the BCG video on sealing/pore filling with CA on backs/sides. I seal tops with 1 or 2 # cut shellac when gluing in rosettes with either fish, pva or CA, avoiding staining, etc.

what happens is over time the CA colors to a nice pee yellow or green
so if you want yellow toner . I know many swear by CA for rosettes but if you look you will often see that tint. What others do is seal the wood with shellac then use CA and I have to ask why? Why add another step that isn't needed? Duco does a great job Martin has been using weldon ( similar to duco ) for years.
I did stop using CA as I had adhesion issues with a guitar and I attribute that to the CA
I have seen guitar finished using CA and it is fine on some woods

tippie53 wrote:what happens is over time the CA colors to a nice pee yellow or green
so if you want yellow toner . I know many swear by CA for rosettes but if you look you will often see that tint. What others do is seal the wood with shellac then use CA and I have to ask why? Why add another step that isn't needed? Duco does a great job Martin has been using weldon ( similar to duco ) for years.
I did stop using CA as I had adhesion issues with a guitar and I attribute that to the CA
I have seen guitar finished using CA and it is fine on some woods

Duco is great stuff and perfect for rosettes and really easy to clean up. I still seal the top with 1#cut to keep ebony dust out of the spruce. I used CA on my last rosette because i needed to lay in the purfling dry in order to get it set up right. My apologies to RSommers for hijacking his thread and can sympathize with his situation!

Danl8 wrote:Would it ever make sense to just finish sealing the whole top with CA in this scenario? I recall seeing the BCG video on sealing/pore filling with CA on backs/sides. I seal tops with 1 or 2 # cut shellac when gluing in rosettes with either fish, pva or CA, avoiding staining, etc.

if it shows, I was thinking the same thing... that's a lot of CA!

Here's a pic of the squirt. I should have sealed the whole top.

I'll be using Duco or similar from now on! Lesson learned!

To defend myself from myself, I've found doing two things saves me no end of vocabulary-expanding responses, and rework:

I try to keep a 'sterile' workbench, the only thing on it is what I'm attending to right then,
and
I don't start any task that will take me past ten P.M.

Took me thirty years to figure that out.

try cleaning it with acetone and sand it
once you seal it you will know for sure
jh

While CA will penetrate deep into the endgrain of spruce, it does not penetrate deep into the face grain. You can sand it off.