Guitar plan

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Haggis

Guitar plan

Post by Haggis »

Hi,
I've started a new build and i'm searching for a d28 guitar plan. Stewmac sells a "herringbone
dreadnaught" guitar plan. My first build was a kit fr.o.m. Bluescreek and all details was pre drawn on the top and back. As i build a mold for the first one i'd like to use it again. So if the outline is the same? ...then i'll by the plan from stewmac.
/häggis
tippie53
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Re: Guitar plan

Post by tippie53 »

that will work. It is close and will make a fair reference for you
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
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B. Howard
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Re: Guitar plan

Post by B. Howard »

It will fit into a Martin D size case nicely.
You never know what you are capable of until you actually try....

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Tom West
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Re: Guitar plan

Post by Tom West »

Stew-Mac's plan for a dread guitar is one of the better plans on the market. Lots of plans and book instruction show over built bracing. Stew-Mac is more in line with what is required for an excellent guitar IMHO of course.
Tom
" A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything "
tippie53
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Re: Guitar plan

Post by tippie53 »

I agree that the MacRostie plan is one of the better ones. Martin actually used that in the kits years ago. One little fact Martin never had a blue print for anything until the 70's when Dick Boak got hired. That was his job to create the blueprints . Up to that point they used Foremans notes. I got to research in the Martin Archive and saw these hash marks on the notes. Mike Dickinson explained they are the amount of shims used on a particular jig.
I had documented a total of 5 1937 D28s now and had patterns made up from the information. In all 5 cases there were slight differences but nothing too out of the ordinary . In all the Stew Mac plan is within 1/8 in of what I saw and I agree that is within the specs martin was using at the time.
It is a great base line to start from.
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
Zen
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Re: Guitar plan

Post by Zen »

Scott Antes plan for a Parlor was a bit lacking in info at least for a beginner. I found the stew mac dreadnought much more informative and it came with a dvd as well when i purchased the kit. Probably wouldn't build another one though as it was a bit of a nightmare with the dovetail neck joint .
RUSTY
tippie53
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Re: Guitar plan

Post by tippie53 »

macRostie was much better than the antes drawing
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
Zen
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Re: Guitar plan

Post by Zen »

tippie53 wrote:macRostie was much better than the antes drawing
Many Thanks John , Speaking of plans I dont see much info on Scott antes parlor plan on where to set the bridge on the body ? Would you be able to advise me what to do to set it . The scale is 24.9 and its a 12th fret join at the body
Maybe the measurements are actually there on the plan but i don't see it right now.
Any advise appreciated
RUSTY
Zen
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Re: Guitar plan

Post by Zen »

Many Thanks Runningdog.

Whats the thinking about the B especially ? Just wondering

Cheers

Rusty
RUSTY
Zen
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Re: Guitar plan

Post by Zen »

Runningdog wrote:Saddle location:
Double the distance from the nut to the 12th.
Add .15"
That's the distance from the nut to the center of the saddle, right up the center line (between D and G strings).

Other people measure differently, such as to each end of the saddle, but if the angle of compensation is correct this is consistently the best correction. See Cumpiano & Natelson for more info.

You also need to ramp the saddle from back to front for each string, especially the B. There are (again) numerous ways of doing this ... whatever works for you.



Thanks, Just checking something so that I can get my head around it. Does that work for every scale.
Its a parlor --Scott antes plan-- and Lmi encourage people who buy this kit to build with 24.9 scale so thats what I'm shooting for. The plan says a different scale but for some reason LMI do it differently.


So, just wondering will the method above work for this scale on a parlor ? Is that how you guys work out the bridge position on all guitars

Thanks for all the great advise here
Rusty
RUSTY
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